New project..... something that might appeal to the more tailored young lady in your life. A 3/4 length cotton pique jacket and coordinating A-line sailor collar dress. Who does not like a red jacket? It will pair beautifully with denim or white jeans for a more casual look.
The red cotton pique jacket is fully lined (partially with the red pindot pique and partially with a white poly lining for ease slipping on and off) and features many precision construction details. Can you guess what is behind the two angle set piped bows? Hint.... fully constructed single welt pockets with an angle cut underlap.
The construction of the jacket back allows for a half belt, embellished with another piped bow, and a wearing ease pleat. The sleeve lining has a turn back of the red pique which builds in at least a year of growth room for most girls.
The simple fully lined A-line dress, constructed from a red pin dot pique, is a nice diversion from full skirts and puffy sleeves. The piped sailor style collar curves into a Peter Pan style in the back. The piped set in sleeve offers a good challenge to incorporate enough ease without puckers or gathers across the cap of the sleeve.
Welt pockets (single or double) can be quite challenging to perfect. The following is my preferred method for constructing single welt pockets. These instructions are part of one of my notebook classes titled 'Just Pockets'.
Single Welt - Sample Swatch
1. Base Fabric: 10” long by 9” wide
Base Fabric Interfacing: 10” long by 9” wide
Pocket Lining: 7” long by 7” wide – cut 2
Welt Fabric: 2 ½” long by 5 ½” wide
Welt Interfacing: 2 ½” long by 5 ½” wide
French Fuse: 3” long by 7” wide
2. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the welt.
3. Right sides together, sew the short ends together. Trim and clip the corners.
5. Measure down and draw a line 3” from the top edge of the base fabric. Machine baste along this line.
6. On the wrong side, center a 3” by 7” rectangle of French Fuse over the basted line and fuse in place.
7. Right sides together place the welt so the raw edge laps ¼” over the basted line.
8. Stitch on the welt taking up a ¼” seam allowance. Begin and end EXACTLY at the ends of the welt. Back stitch very carefully so no stitches extend beyond the welt.
10. Flip the fabric over to the wrong side and stitch EXACTLY on the first stitching line. Backstitch carefully at the beginning and end.
12. On the right side, pin the second pocket lining square so it overlaps the previous stitching by ¼”. Pin in place.
15. Cut along the drawn line through the interfaced base fabric and the French Fuse only. Do not cut through the pocket lining or the welt. Cut diagonally into the corners.
18. Continue stitching down the side of the pocket. The lower edges of the pocket squares will not match.
20. On the right side, carefully stitch down the ends of the welt.