tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-69593183984969389822024-03-13T21:46:28.223-07:00LuLu & AnnieInspirations from designer and seamstress Gail DoaneGail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.comBlogger63125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-35125641807564410302020-03-07T11:29:00.002-08:002020-03-07T11:29:44.022-08:00Stitch Sequence for Scallop Crochet Eding into Entredeux<br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Stitch Sequence for Scallop Crochet Edging into Entredeux<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">(size 12 perle cotton/#10 crochet hook)</span></b></div>
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</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">1. Inset hook from front
to back through first chosen entredeux hole.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Draw through a loop of thread.</span></div>
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</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">2.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Holding the thread tail in place on the back
side of the work, make one chain stitch in entredeux hole #1 with the working
thread.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tension the new loop down to the
edge of the entredeux.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">3. Single crochet into
the next available entredeux hole.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Continue to single crochet in each subsequent entredeux hole keeping an
even tension.</span></div>
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</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">4. Turn work to begin
second row. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">5. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chain 1.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">6.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Single crochet into first stitch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">7. Skip 1 stitch.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">8.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>5 double crochet in next stitch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">9.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Skip 1 stitch.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">10.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Single crochet in next stitch.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">11.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Skip 1 stitch<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_385" o:spid="_x0000_s1028" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; margin-left: 387pt; margin-top: 2.05pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; visibility: visible; width: 119.95pt; z-index: 251932672;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:/Users/gaild/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image013.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_363" o:spid="_x0000_s1027" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; margin-left: 258.75pt; margin-top: 1.8pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; visibility: visible; width: 119.9pt; z-index: 251931648;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:/Users/gaild/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image014.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">12.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>5 double crochet in next stitch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c1I_9dwrHDU/XmPvTCBwLlI/AAAAAAAAjtQ/eCC-_dX3e0o_GI8AUj1KFmLiTBAVewOrQCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1160071.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1020" data-original-width="1359" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c1I_9dwrHDU/XmPvTCBwLlI/AAAAAAAAjtQ/eCC-_dX3e0o_GI8AUj1KFmLiTBAVewOrQCEwYBhgL/s320/P1160071.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">11.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Skip 1 stitch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">13.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Single crochet in next stitch.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CnVN-V1KiKk/XmPvXbYB8aI/AAAAAAAAjtU/bQG6lF_E7mMkTUszhJSGsklrWrjyS55AgCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1160072.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1096" data-original-width="1461" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CnVN-V1KiKk/XmPvXbYB8aI/AAAAAAAAjtU/bQG6lF_E7mMkTUszhJSGsklrWrjyS55AgCEwYBhgL/s320/P1160072.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_386" o:spid="_x0000_s1026" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; margin-left: 387pt; margin-top: 8.95pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; visibility: visible; width: 119.9pt; z-index: 251933696;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:/Users/gaild/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image015.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">14.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Continue in established pattern for desired
length.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RvjWSIlnUB4/XmPvdcLlnvI/AAAAAAAAjtU/G9sVMzwgOm0k0MiTkxZ_cx0MRgTdcWKIgCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1160074.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RvjWSIlnUB4/XmPvdcLlnvI/AAAAAAAAjtU/G9sVMzwgOm0k0MiTkxZ_cx0MRgTdcWKIgCEwYBhgL/s320/P1160074.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ju0jx60eLXY/XmPvsTIzVKI/AAAAAAAAjtU/Cq2OfPXJ7mUa5hhh6OU9GZ_w6MALfS4OwCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1150556.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ju0jx60eLXY/XmPvsTIzVKI/AAAAAAAAjtU/Cq2OfPXJ7mUa5hhh6OU9GZ_w6MALfS4OwCEwYBhgL/s320/P1150556.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">15.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The abbreviated pattern would read:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Row
1:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>SC<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Turn
work<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;">Row
2:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ch 1, SC in first stitch, *skip 1 st,
5 DC in next st, skip 1 st, 1 SC in next st;<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Rep from * to end.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fasten off.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"> Chain Stitch</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m8IJqS4BufM/XmP0UgJ8P-I/AAAAAAAAjtg/4MQgjOuWqMQOISYOuAVje0-cgvHrJ2f_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Chain%2BStitch%2BScn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="133" data-original-width="657" height="64" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m8IJqS4BufM/XmP0UgJ8P-I/AAAAAAAAjtg/4MQgjOuWqMQOISYOuAVje0-cgvHrJ2f_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Chain%2BStitch%2BScn.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Single Crochet</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GwgKUdmiA1Q/XmP0S5xXSII/AAAAAAAAjts/YfstXBHRHQYcT0ETB5DTLz4MEV03HXfRgCEwYBhgL/s1600/Single%2BCrochet%2BScan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="146" data-original-width="678" height="68" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GwgKUdmiA1Q/XmP0S5xXSII/AAAAAAAAjts/YfstXBHRHQYcT0ETB5DTLz4MEV03HXfRgCEwYBhgL/s320/Single%2BCrochet%2BScan.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Double Crochet</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LGjx5OTaWHc/XmP0Wf96mMI/AAAAAAAAjts/GbKUoGSCIugbyoYiQWvIkXJEpVMbZYh7wCEwYBhgL/s1600/Double%2BCrochet%2BScan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="145" data-original-width="706" height="65" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LGjx5OTaWHc/XmP0Wf96mMI/AAAAAAAAjts/GbKUoGSCIugbyoYiQWvIkXJEpVMbZYh7wCEwYBhgL/s320/Double%2BCrochet%2BScan.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial",sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<br />Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-22490791773646726542020-03-06T21:38:00.000-08:002020-03-07T08:37:38.728-08:00Fabric Ruffle, Piped, Peter Pan Collar Tutorial<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Fabric Ruffle, Piped, Peter Pan Collar</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_41" o:spid="_x0000_s1042" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 390.75pt; margin-top: -.15pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251804672;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:/Users/gaild/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image004.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><o:p> </o:p></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">1.</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Using a #2 pencil, trace the collar outline
(make sure to flip the pattern over to make a left and a right collar) onto the
right side of a block of fabric.</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Be
careful to line up the grain line of the collar to the grain line of the
fabric.</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">DO NOT cut out the collar.</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Mark the center front, center back, and the
shoulder line.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GOz7s8JMyxE/XmMoY29d4QI/AAAAAAAAjoI/awBH4kadvF8blhCjBao-J42X9JfHu2DgACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/P1150703.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GOz7s8JMyxE/XmMoY29d4QI/AAAAAAAAjoI/awBH4kadvF8blhCjBao-J42X9JfHu2DgACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/P1150703.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">2. Fuse lightweight interfacing to the wrong
side of the collar fabric block. For
lightweight fabrics an alternative to interfacing is to use two layers of the
outer fabric.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">3. Cut bias strips to the following widths
(depending on chosen seam allowance):<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><v:shapetype coordsize="21600,21600" filled="f" id="_x0000_t75" o:preferrelative="t" o:spt="75" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" stroked="f">
<v:stroke joinstyle="miter">
<v:formulas>
<v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0">
<v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0">
<v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1">
<v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2">
<v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth">
<v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight">
<v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1">
<v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2">
<v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth">
<v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0">
<v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight">
<v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0">
</v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:f></v:formulas>
<v:path gradientshapeok="t" o:connecttype="rect" o:extrusionok="f">
<o:lock aspectratio="t" v:ext="edit">
</o:lock></v:path></v:stroke></v:shapetype><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_18" o:spid="_x0000_s1027" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 388.5pt; margin-top: 28.4pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251732992;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:/Users/gaild/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image001.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">¾” wide for ¼” seam
allowances<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">1”
wide for ⅜” seam allowances<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">1
¼” wide for ½” seam allowances<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;">·<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">1
½” wide for ⅝” seam allowances<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Wrap
the bias strip around the filler cord and use a zipper foot, five groove
pintuck foot, cording foot, or open toe applique foot to stitch close to, but
not catching the filler cord. There
should be the width of one needle between the stitching and the cord. Use a 2.5 stitch length.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_19" o:spid="_x0000_s1026" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 388.35pt; margin-top: .25pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251734016;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:/Users/gaild/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image002.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">4. Cut a length of
piping the approximate length of the collar perimeter. Clip into the piping seam allowance at ½”
intervals. Steam shape the piping to the
perimeter of the collar. Stitch the
piping (2.0L) to the collar, stitching just inside the stitching line on the
piping. Be careful to keep the raw edges
of the piping aligned to the drawn collar perimeter. Do not stretch the piping while stitching.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-21EUniUgyYE/XmMoednUT0I/AAAAAAAAjoM/gAlE5bWzuvUySij4p_NPJBDgtz3rzVuSgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/P1150704.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-21EUniUgyYE/XmMoednUT0I/AAAAAAAAjoM/gAlE5bWzuvUySij4p_NPJBDgtz3rzVuSgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/P1150704.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XbuEMXncWus/XmMp_5TffUI/AAAAAAAAjoc/DGrbhvS5TXMP8vJAkYiPKMGXo4ZFtdl5wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/P1150705.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XbuEMXncWus/XmMp_5TffUI/AAAAAAAAjoc/DGrbhvS5TXMP8vJAkYiPKMGXo4ZFtdl5wCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/P1150705.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_43" o:spid="_x0000_s1041" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 263.25pt; margin-top: 1.55pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251806720;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:/Users/gaild/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image005.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">2. Cut out the
interfaced, piped collar front on the perimeter pencil line.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cut out the neckline curve ½” from the pencil
line.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9lKCN5tfymc/XmMqIBOwM4I/AAAAAAAAjok/ASiQqEh5UXM0Pxlxj8bZ9D-WDMY6AwoAACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/P1150706.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9lKCN5tfymc/XmMqIBOwM4I/AAAAAAAAjok/ASiQqEh5UXM0Pxlxj8bZ9D-WDMY6AwoAACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/P1150706.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l0cL5q_p2z0/XmMqL89kAwI/AAAAAAAAjoo/2rlPq2a73yYn38FeHm4pP-qDAumNDxEMQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/P1150707.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l0cL5q_p2z0/XmMqL89kAwI/AAAAAAAAjoo/2rlPq2a73yYn38FeHm4pP-qDAumNDxEMQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/P1150707.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_57" o:spid="_x0000_s1040" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 390.6pt; margin-top: 3.2pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251809792;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:/Users/gaild/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image006.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_56" o:spid="_x0000_s1039" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 263.25pt; margin-top: 3.2pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251808768;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:/Users/gaild/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image007.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">3.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Using a steam iron, gently press the piping
into its finished position, easing in the seam allowances on the wrong side of
the collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> It will look lumpy...don't panic. All that excess seam allowance will end up being cut off.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bKo9Hfvni1U/XmMqRz-7KRI/AAAAAAAAjpE/u9AlYndw-oEfX3yHCai7ddNkm9jfqNVQwCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1150709.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bKo9Hfvni1U/XmMqRz-7KRI/AAAAAAAAjpE/u9AlYndw-oEfX3yHCai7ddNkm9jfqNVQwCEwYBhgL/s320/P1150709.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dd2eKTvD5a0/XmMqPgseRbI/AAAAAAAAjpE/F8ypWNPMzV0qgaV9PjTLZX9JzULhEA9eACEwYBhgL/s1600/P1150708.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dd2eKTvD5a0/XmMqPgseRbI/AAAAAAAAjpE/F8ypWNPMzV0qgaV9PjTLZX9JzULhEA9eACEwYBhgL/s320/P1150708.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">4.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For a ¾” wide finished ruffle cut 2 ¼” bide
bias strips twice the length of the finished collar edge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fold the bias strips in half (lengthwise and
wrong sides together) and press.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Use the
ruffle guide provided to shape both ends of the collar ruffle.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KXkKDpS_LDk/XmMshG9GBiI/AAAAAAAAjpo/HiyXeGy_8D8ALFtnnuteAkrSlX2qAX54gCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1150711.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KXkKDpS_LDk/XmMshG9GBiI/AAAAAAAAjpo/HiyXeGy_8D8ALFtnnuteAkrSlX2qAX54gCEwYBhgL/s320/P1150711.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1lJmsXIJilE/XmMseCKi65I/AAAAAAAAjpM/zH5tu64jlGk_Thaws9UpKdqi6jRJM-aIACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/P1150710.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1lJmsXIJilE/XmMseCKi65I/AAAAAAAAjpM/zH5tu64jlGk_Thaws9UpKdqi6jRJM-aIACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/P1150710.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_60" o:spid="_x0000_s1035" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 263.25pt; margin-top: -.2pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251812864;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:/Users/gaild/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image011.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">5. Run two rows of
gathering threads (3.0L), one at ⅛” and the second at ⅜” away from the cut
edges of the collar ruffle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mark the
center point and gather up the collar ruffle to the finished collar
measurement.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pull from each end in
toward the center point.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lKzTv4Emlsc/XmMsjbWj1XI/AAAAAAAAjpU/QO4PdP94W0Q1x7KsJOF6vRjvVCwonqI3wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/P1150712.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lKzTv4Emlsc/XmMsjbWj1XI/AAAAAAAAjpU/QO4PdP94W0Q1x7KsJOF6vRjvVCwonqI3wCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/P1150712.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">6.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mark the center front and the center back
SEAMLINE (not cutting line) on the piped collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These marks are where the collar ruffle
should end.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ilwjt-_zB4Y/XmMsmfPlqPI/AAAAAAAAjpw/d6ruc0OFof8K4mOsdoKOrgZ3TWb9XUGQwCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1150713.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ilwjt-_zB4Y/XmMsmfPlqPI/AAAAAAAAjpw/d6ruc0OFof8K4mOsdoKOrgZ3TWb9XUGQwCEwYBhgL/s320/P1150713.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_62" o:spid="_x0000_s1034" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 389.25pt; margin-top: 13.8pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251814912;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:/Users/gaild/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image012.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">7.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Working from the right side, pin the
gathered up ruffle to the wrong side of the collar having the ⅜” gathering
thread line positioned just beyond the piped edge of the collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x80jKTValow/XmMsqm2gWdI/AAAAAAAAjp4/FvuqIfrCchUO3MDa90-ryKGmx_vdCEZwgCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1150714.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x80jKTValow/XmMsqm2gWdI/AAAAAAAAjp4/FvuqIfrCchUO3MDa90-ryKGmx_vdCEZwgCEwYBhgL/s320/P1150714.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_308" o:spid="_x0000_s1033" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 263.25pt; margin-top: .95pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251815936;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:/Users/gaild/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image013.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_309" o:spid="_x0000_s1032" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 389.1pt; margin-top: .65pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251816960;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:/Users/gaild/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image014.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">8.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Machine baste (5.0L) right along the piping,
holding the gathered ruffle in its finished position.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Be sure the ruffle begins and ends at the
marked center front and center back SEAMLINES.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-slWFPX03HqE/XmMst-cOZYI/AAAAAAAAjp0/e8QtL3xZkWsHg2fCg4Q5Xr8Fm0P6ujhVQCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1150715.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-slWFPX03HqE/XmMst-cOZYI/AAAAAAAAjp0/e8QtL3xZkWsHg2fCg4Q5Xr8Fm0P6ujhVQCEwYBhgL/s320/P1150715.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c5v4vcmcvqw/XmMsw3qMqSI/AAAAAAAAjp4/nKoD9apVBPcUT2u12PXd6QJtx89eeUMZQCEwYBhgL/s1600/P1150716.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c5v4vcmcvqw/XmMsw3qMqSI/AAAAAAAAjp4/nKoD9apVBPcUT2u12PXd6QJtx89eeUMZQCEwYBhgL/s320/P1150716.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_311" o:spid="_x0000_s1031" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 389.25pt; margin-top: .8pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251819008;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:/Users/gaild/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image015.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">9.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Flip the seam allowances back out, which will
force the ruffle toward the center of the collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The basting line from Step 8 will keep the
ruffle in its correct position while you proceed with the finishing steps of
the collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_310" o:spid="_x0000_s1030" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 389.25pt; margin-top: 42.9pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251817984;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:/Users/gaild/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image016.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">10.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Matching fabric grain lines and right sides
together, lay the collar front over the collar backing, sandwiching the piping
and the ruffle in the middle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pin in
place.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">11.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Stitch (1.5L) right on top of the stitching
line from the application of the piping.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Stitch again (1.5L), a scant 1/16” away from the first stitching line.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">12.
Trim through all layers very close to the second stitching line around the
perimeter of the collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_314" o:spid="_x0000_s1026" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 263.25pt; margin-top: 9.9pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251822080;" type="#_x0000_t75"> </v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">13.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Remove the basting thread lines from the
piping and the inner edge of the gathered ruffle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> I do not cut out along the neckline cutting line until I am ready to sew the collar into the neckline of the garment. This prevents the collar from stretching during preparation. </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br />Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-8657839526465675272016-07-16T20:44:00.000-07:002017-01-29T10:51:04.164-08:00Bound Buttonhole Tutorial<div style="text-align: center;">
I have had several requests for a little picture tutorial of my method for making bound buttonholes. I posted this photo last week on my Facebook page and the Classic Sewing Magazine Facebook page. </div>
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It is a close up of a bound buttonhole made with (somewhat enhanced) mini piping using a piping foot on my sewing machine. </div>
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The bound buttonholes are featured on this project which will be a new class in 2017. The jacket and dress fabric are cotton twill from Fabric Finders paired with a 100% pima cotton traditional tartan from Spechler/Vogel. The easy fitting raglan sleeve jacket has lots of construction details....bound buttonholes, double welt bias cut front pockets (which look like huge bound buttonholes), bias cut collar overlay, bias cut cuff turnbacks, mini piping on all perimeter edges, and a pleated back with piped tab. </div>
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The coordinating dress features a bodice front overlay with a bias cut contrast tartan band, bias cut tartan sleeve overlays, piped back belt with bound buttonholes, and buttons all the way down the back. The hem is bound and shaped to accomodate the A-line <span style="text-align: center;">of the pleated skirt.</span></div>
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Project kits will be available in several color options - should be something that appeals to everyone.</div>
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Here is a picture step-by-step of my methond for making the bound buttonholes. </div>
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1. Clearly mark the placement of the buttonhole(s) on the right side of the fabric. For a 1" button (for the jacket) I marked a 1 1/8" buttonhole and for a 1/2" button (back belt on dress) I marked a 5/8" buttonhole. Work over interfaced fabric. </div>
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2. Draw in two more lines each an accurate 1/8" away from the center placement line.</div>
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3. Make enough piping for the length of each buttonhole plus 1" (x's 2). For this weight of fabric I found using two strands of filler cord instead of one made for a studier, better proportioned bound buttonhole. I did not adjust my needle position as close to the cord as I normally would for single strand piping. Trim the seam allowance down to an accurate 1/8". I checked and it appears none of the piping rulers on the market will cut a seam allowance down to 1/8" so you will have to have a steady hand to make an accurate cut.</div>
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4. Cut the piping the length of the buttonhole plus 1". Lay the seamline of the piping on the outer line of the marked buttonhole. The raw edge of the seam allowance should just touch the center marked line. Using your piping foot and adjusting the needle position as necessary to stitch close to the cord, stitch (1.5L) over the seamline on the piping EXACTLY between the two marked vertical edges. Backstitch at the beginning and the end. Repeat for the second strip of piping. The two 1/8" seam allowances should just touch on the center line. I prefer to use the open toe applique foot to make piping on my Pfaff (rather than the mini piping foot). One 'toe' on the foot is exactly 1/4" wide which is super helpful when lining up the strips for the button<span style="text-align: center;">hole. I love my Pfaff - it has 29 needle positions which allows superb accuracy when working with piping. </span></div>
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5. The back should look like this, Slash down the center of the back to within 1/4" at each end. Make a 'Y' cut out to the end of the stitching at each end, </div>
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6. Pull the piping strips through to the wrong side. Gently press. </div>
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7. Fold the jacket front out of the way and stitch down the little triangle at each end of the buttonhole. Trim the excess piping down to 1/4" at each end of the buttonhole. </div>
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8. The following photos show the method I used to finish the lining side of the bound buttonhole. I used silk organza with the lining window 'patch'. </div>
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Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-45170956692423056732016-04-12T16:29:00.001-07:002016-04-12T17:23:08.214-07:00A Little Something Tailored<div style="text-align: center;">
New project..... something that might appeal to the more tailored young lady in your life. A 3/4 length cotton pique jacket and coordinating A-line sailor collar dress. Who does not like a red jacket? It will pair beautifully with denim or white jeans for a more casual look. </div>
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The red cotton pique jacket is fully lined (partially with the red pindot pique and partially with a white poly lining for ease slipping on and off) and features many precision construction details. Can you guess what is behind the two angle set piped bows? Hint.... fully constructed single welt pockets with an angle cut underlap. </div>
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The construction of the jacket back allows for a half belt, embellished with another piped bow, and a wearing ease pleat. The sleeve lining has a turn back of the red pique which builds in at least a year of growth room for most girls. </div>
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The simple fully lined A-line dress, constructed from a red pin dot pique, is a nice diversion from full skirts and puffy sleeves. The piped sailor style collar curves into a Peter Pan style in the back. The piped set in sleeve offers a good challenge to incorporate enough ease without puckers or gathers across the cap of the sleeve. </div>
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Welt pockets (single or double) can be quite challenging to perfect. The following is my preferred method for constructing single welt pockets. These instructions are part of one of my notebook classes titled 'Just Pockets'. </div>
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<b><span style="font-size: 16.0pt;">Single Welt - Sample Swatch<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">1.
Base Fabric: 10” long by 9” wide <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> Base Fabric Interfacing: 10” long by 9” wide <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> Pocket Lining: 7” long by 7” wide – cut 2<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> Welt Fabric: 2 ½” long by 5 ½” wide <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> Welt Interfacing: 2 ½” long by 5 ½” wide <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"> French Fuse: 3” long by 7” wide<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">2.
Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the welt.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">3. Right sides together, sew the short ends
together. Trim and clip the corners.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
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</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_4" o:spid="_x0000_s1045" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 164.25pt; margin-top: 5.65pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120.3pt; z-index: 251661312;" type="#_x0000_t75"><br /></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_4" o:spid="_x0000_s1045" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 164.25pt; margin-top: 5.65pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120.3pt; z-index: 251661312;" type="#_x0000_t75"><br /></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_4" o:spid="_x0000_s1045" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 164.25pt; margin-top: 5.65pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120.3pt; z-index: 251661312;" type="#_x0000_t75"><br /></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">4. Turn right side out and press.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<br /></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">5.
Measure down and draw a line 3” from the top edge of the base fabric. Machine baste along this line.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">6. On the wrong side, center a 3” by 7”
rectangle of French Fuse over the basted line and fuse in place.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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width: 120.2pt; z-index: 251664384;" type="#_x0000_t75">
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">7.
Right sides together place the welt so the raw edge laps ¼” over the basted line.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">8.
Stitch on the welt taking up a ¼” seam allowance. Begin and end EXACTLY at the ends of the
welt. Back stitch very carefully so no
stitches extend beyond the welt.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
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</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_12" o:spid="_x0000_s1041" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 294.75pt; margin-top: .3pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251667456;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image010.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">9. On the right side,
center one of the pocket lining squares over the welt, matching the top
edges.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TUY_lX5nBeE/Vw1558bYphI/AAAAAAAAB8A/QLT7ulaOZ900ZK06zGecIphETX08Yx1Hw/s1600/P1120818.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TUY_lX5nBeE/Vw1558bYphI/AAAAAAAAB8A/QLT7ulaOZ900ZK06zGecIphETX08Yx1Hw/s320/P1120818.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">10. Flip the fabric over to the wrong
side and stitch EXACTLY on the first stitching line. Backstitch carefully at the beginning and
end. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W6bhDo6Ehlw/Vw15_O2YoqI/AAAAAAAAB8M/-BnA-1wT_y8kdaD_lEqLYA8jBzVF_gCHQ/s1600/P1120819.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W6bhDo6Ehlw/Vw15_O2YoqI/AAAAAAAAB8M/-BnA-1wT_y8kdaD_lEqLYA8jBzVF_gCHQ/s320/P1120819.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_14" o:spid="_x0000_s1040" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 290.25pt; margin-top: 7pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251669504;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image011.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_15" o:spid="_x0000_s1039" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 414.75pt; margin-top: 7pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 127.35pt; z-index: 251670528;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image012.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">12. On the right side, pin the second
pocket lining square so it overlaps the previous stitching by ¼”. Pin in place.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XQ0mFGA8aeM/Vw16Ajs5BaI/AAAAAAAAB8M/lKGaZWImgI4LaxHKMRYvyY3UUl8D8_mMw/s1600/P1120821.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XQ0mFGA8aeM/Vw16Ajs5BaI/AAAAAAAAB8M/lKGaZWImgI4LaxHKMRYvyY3UUl8D8_mMw/s320/P1120821.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jS0my_wuZw8/Vw16EXymS7I/AAAAAAAAB8M/__IK1Wlc36wvYWrlgAt05XCx58MFcL4ag/s1600/P1120822.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jS0my_wuZw8/Vw16EXymS7I/AAAAAAAAB8M/__IK1Wlc36wvYWrlgAt05XCx58MFcL4ag/s320/P1120822.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_16" o:spid="_x0000_s1038" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 291pt; margin-top: 3.6pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251671552;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image013.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_17" o:spid="_x0000_s1037" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 418.5pt; margin-top: 3.25pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120.35pt; z-index: 251672576;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image014.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">13. On the wrong side,
draw in a line ½” above the original line.
Start and stop the line ½” shorter than the original line below it. Stitch on the new line backstitching at the
beginning and the end. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gA7u_gEfQE4/Vw16IHDPL0I/AAAAAAAAB7o/eD63OGNRzgkwLQtFAJYBuUKTKD9Jskxtg/s1600/P1120823.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gA7u_gEfQE4/Vw16IHDPL0I/AAAAAAAAB7o/eD63OGNRzgkwLQtFAJYBuUKTKD9Jskxtg/s320/P1120823.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kFjjk4UoZ1Q/Vw16MUzoIkI/AAAAAAAAB8c/NAm-mIOovUoww3pt7uN8MqwPAvgeC-1Lg/s1600/P1120824.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kFjjk4UoZ1Q/Vw16MUzoIkI/AAAAAAAAB8c/NAm-mIOovUoww3pt7uN8MqwPAvgeC-1Lg/s320/P1120824.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_20" o:spid="_x0000_s1036" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 418.5pt; margin-top: 10.15pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251675648;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image015.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_19" o:spid="_x0000_s1035" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 291pt; margin-top: 10.2pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 121.6pt; z-index: 251674624;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image016.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_18" o:spid="_x0000_s1034" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 161.25pt; margin-top: 10.15pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251673600;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image017.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_18" o:spid="_x0000_s1034" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 161.25pt; margin-top: 10.15pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251673600;" type="#_x0000_t75"><br /></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_18" o:spid="_x0000_s1034" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 161.25pt; margin-top: 10.15pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251673600;" type="#_x0000_t75"><br /></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_18" o:spid="_x0000_s1034" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 161.25pt; margin-top: 10.15pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251673600;" type="#_x0000_t75"><br /></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_18" o:spid="_x0000_s1034" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 161.25pt; margin-top: 10.15pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251673600;" type="#_x0000_t75"><br /></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_18" o:spid="_x0000_s1034" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 161.25pt; margin-top: 10.15pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251673600;" type="#_x0000_t75"><br /></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_18" o:spid="_x0000_s1034" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 161.25pt; margin-top: 10.15pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251673600;" type="#_x0000_t75"><br /></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">14. On the wrong side,
draw a line in between the two stitched lines. Draw two lines diagonally into
the corners.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">15.
Cut along the drawn line through the interfaced base fabric and the
French Fuse only. Do not cut through the
pocket lining or the welt. Cut diagonally
into the corners. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 7.25in; text-align: justify;">
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_21" o:spid="_x0000_s1033" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 291pt; margin-top: 3.75pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251676672;" type="#_x0000_t75">
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</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">16. Pull the two
pocket lining squares through to the wrong side through the slashed
opening. Press the welt carefully. It is helpful to do the pressing over a
ham. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">17. From the wrong
side and with the base fabric folded back out of the way carefully stitch
diagonally over the folded back pie shaped wedges at each end of the
pocket. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">18. Continue stitching down the side of
the pocket. The lower edges of the
pocket squares will not match.</span></div>
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</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">19. Stitch across the
bottom of the pocket and up the other side cutting in on a diagonal line to
stitch over the folded back pie shaped wedge on the opposite side.</span></div>
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</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif";">20.
On the right side, carefully stitch down the ends of the welt.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-22379318519311798052016-03-29T20:10:00.000-07:002016-03-30T07:36:22.878-07:00Jelly Roll Madness<div style="text-align: center;">
I have been holding off posting these photos waiting on the release of the second issue of Classic Sewing Magazine. I am so very pleased that my project has been chosen for the cover. A big thank- you to Kathy and Phyllis for working so hard to produce this wonderful magazine, </div>
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I know very little about the giant quilting world but have been having a bit of fun with jelly rolls. A jelly roll is forty, 2 1/2" by 45"strips of coordinated fabric all rolled up in a cute little package. They look like this and are so much fun to work with.</div>
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The first version of the jacket and dress came to life on a visit to Becky's Barn (www.beckybarn.blogspot.com) in Tennessee. Becky (a completely fabulous quilter and all around great person) runs this wonderful retreat space with a quilting shop attached. 'Regent Street' from Moda immediately caught my eye and the first jelly roll jacket and dress was planned. Unfortunately, because fabric groups turn over so very quickly in the quilting world this particular group is no longer available. But the good news is new and lovely collections are always on the horizon.</div>
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On a teaching trip to Oregon I was lucky enough to have the perfect model and her perfect photographer mom volunteer to model and photograph the project. Many thanks to Gwen and her talented mom Virginia for these lovely photos. We never dreamed in the short time they were taken that the cover of a magazine was in the future for Gwen. </div>
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I have made the project up in two other Moda collections. There seems to be endless possibilities for placement of the different coordinating strips so each jelly roll will produce a unique result in the hands of each individual stitcher. You are the designer. The following photos are 'Hello Darling' and 'Hi-De-Ho' both from Moda. Both of these collections are currently available in quilt shops,</div>
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I have just added kits on my Etsy site (www.etsy.com/shop/gaildoane) for the following collections;</div>
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Summerfest (May 2016), Backyard Roses (May 2016), and Fresh Market (June 2016) will be added as they become available. </div>
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You can get a much better look at the fabrics in the various collections by going to www.unitednotions.com and typing the collection name in the search bar for the Moda collections and www.rileyblakedesigns.com for the Riley Blake collectons.</div>
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If you happen to have a stash of jelly rolls pull one out and give this project a try - one jelly roll will make up to a size 10 jacket with enough scraps left over for the trim on the angel sleeve, back belt, and scalloped hem of the dress. Keep stitching!<br />
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P.S Sneak peek of what's happening in my sewing room. Kitty Grace.... more Liberty of London love.<br />
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Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-19633400200955306692015-11-25T13:37:00.000-08:002015-11-25T13:38:54.211-08:00Thank You Kathy and Phyllis<div style="text-align: center;">
It is an honor to have had my project chosen for the cover garment of the premier issue of Classic Sewing. Thanks to Kathy and Phyllis, this publication is top quality and such a needed addition to our little heirloom sewing world. Bravo ladies!</div>
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After a bit of a scramble (because the magazine actually released EARLY!!!!) project kits are up on my Etsy site (www.etsy.com/shop/gaildoane) in a choice of three colors.</div>
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My submission for the next issue is stitched/drafted/photographed/instructions written/and shipped!!! Ta da!</div>
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<br />Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-22316463931251328902015-05-05T15:23:00.000-07:002015-05-05T15:23:54.963-07:00Strawberry Thief - The Liberty Obsession Continues My obsession with Liberty continues. Current project is a jacket/smocked dress combination.<br />
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The jacket is constructed with Liberty of London </div>
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Strawberry Thief from their classic line. I channel quilted the body and sleeves of the jacket to a layer of 'Warm and Natural' which gave it a lovely bit of body but not a lot of extra weight. The two center pleated patch pockets are piped with lime 1/32" micro check and bound with navy pique. I did a fair amount of fussy cutting to keep the birds all lined up and facing the right direction. </div>
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The turn up on the sleeve will allow for at least an extra year of growth room. Three turned bias loops over covered buttons secure the asymmetric closure on the front of the jacket.</div>
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The back yoke of the jacket is quilted on a diagonal 1" grid and the center back pleat give a nice swing shape to the jacket when worn over the dress.</div>
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The matching navy pique smocked dress has a scalloped yoke, sleeve and hemline. </div>
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Twenty two 4 1/2" scallops give the hemline a nice weight and serious twirl factor.</div>
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I am thinking I might use this quilting technique to make a Liberty jacket for myself. It opens up lots of options for some of the under two yard cuts I have been hoarding for more than a few years (even the 36" wide ones!)</div>
Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-70044520539588726822014-11-21T15:17:00.000-08:002014-11-22T04:57:41.038-08:00Master Class - Details, Details, Details<div style="text-align: center;">
I am lucky enough to be asked to teach private classes every so often. Inevitably the ladies in these small groups end up becoming my trusted friends. As these classes tend to become annual events there is always the desire to move up a notch or two in difficulty with the planned class project. This year I have designed the quintessential little English girl's outfit - a smocked Liberty print dress and matching wool dress coat. It definitely falls into the category of 'master' or advanced class ranking. </div>
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The dress is constructed form Liberty of London tana lawn 'Wiltshire' which is one of their classic prints that stays available for several years rather than just one season. The smocked sections on each side of the box pleated center front panel run right up into the shoulder seam and are backed with 'baby' interfacing to plump up the pleats and give a more structured appearance. It does require a 32 row pleater to prepare the side panels for hand smocking.</div>
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The piped collar features a dark navy overlay of cotton pique which coordinates with the covered buttons at the sides of the center front panel. The lower ten rows are surface smocked with rows of trellis stitch and the upper portion is back smocked to show off the beauty of the 'Wiltshire' print in it's altered, pleated state, Chunky bullion roses (three strands of floss) are centered between the sets of trellis stitch.</div>
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The back of the dress is finished off with a piped modified sash that ties into a flat self bow. I did not want the bulk of a traditional tied sash under the dress coat.</div>
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The coat has a traditional look but is modified with added fullness in the side panels to accommodate the fullness of the smocked dress worn underneath. French dark navy blue Italian wool flannel is a perfect weight for a little girl's coat. The upper body and sleeves and completely interlined with 'baby' interfacing but the lower front and back sections are not interlined to allow for gathering up the wool into the bodice front and back. </div>
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I tried using fusible hair canvas which was something new (to me!) for the full front panels and the collar. I was very pleased with the results and would definitely recommend it for children's tailored garments as it does not need any pad stitching to hold it in place. The next photo shows a peek inside the half finished coat with the hair canvas in place on the front panels, the 'baby interfacing used as an interlining for the remaining upper portion of the coat and the shoulder pads in place. </div>
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The front of the coat closes with machine buttonholes and self covered embroidered buttons to coordinate with the embroidery on the collar of the coat and the print of the dress.</div>
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A generous box pleat at the center back allows for extra fullness in the lower portion of the coat. A decorative shaped half belt embellished with a bullion rose and a bit of feather stitch accents the back waistline. </div>
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The coat is fully lined with flannel back satin for additional warmth without adding too much bulk. The lower hemline is padded out with strips of bias cut fusible woven interfacing and the raw edge bound with scraps left over from the coordinating dress. It is all covered up with the lining but I still know its in there!</div>
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I am going to have my students choose from three colorways in the Wiltshire print which all coordinate beautifully with the dark French navy coat.</div>
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The project will be sized 4, 6, and 8. The sample dress and coat shown are a size 4. I am going to try making the coat up in cotton pique which could be a good weight for all my southern friends who would have no use whatsoever for a wool coat. You can click on any of the photos for a (frighteningly) enhanced close up view.</div>
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Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-13247511859802559342014-07-01T15:26:00.000-07:002014-07-01T18:44:36.521-07:00Gotta Love A New Gadget and a Double Piping Tutorial<div style="text-align: justify;">
We sewing ladies are great collectors and everyone loves a new gadget. These scallop rulers might not be new on the market but they are new to me. I wanted to try a project that would feature what this little gem will do. I am sure they were developed for the quilt market but I can think of lots of places I might use them in the embellishment of children's garments. </div>
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The ruler and the 'pusher' are sold separately and come in 1/2", 3/4", 1", 1 1/2", and 2" sizes. I used the 2" size for this project.</div>
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The ruler allows you to quite simply mark and stitch two straight grain strips of fabric together (I used raspberry and aqua 1/32" micro check) and end up with a double scallop border. I gathered it up for the angel sleeve and applied it flat around the hemline. It gave a very nice reversible effect on the angel sleeve.</div>
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The project would be great for someone just learning to smock because of the small amount of basic trellis stitch smocking on the center panel. I don't love the way fine pine pique looks pleated on the cross grain (parallel to the selvage) so I took the liberty of turning my center panel and pleating it along the lengthwise grain so the rib in the pique runs horizontal rather than vertical. It's O.K to beak the 'rules' sometimes.</div>
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The other interesting design feature on this project is the double piping. There are several possible ways to make double piping and on this project I used the following method. </div>
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I sew with a Pfaff and prefer to use a center groove open toe applique foot for making piping. It has the perfect size little groove right down the center to hold the cord and allows for multiple needle position adjustment. It is also a very short foot which helps when going around curves. If you want to end up with double piping that has a 3/8" seam allowance start with a 1" wide bias strip for the outer color. Wrap the bias around the cord and stitch with a basting stitch one stitch width away from the cord.</div>
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For the inner color cut the bias strip 7/8" wide. Right sides together and raw edges even lay the inner color on top of the outer color stitched piping. Use the same foot and needle position to stitch through all layers right on top of the stitching line from the previous step. </div>
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Lay a second piece of cord right next to the stitching line and using the same foot and needle position wrap the inner color over the second cord and stitch one stitch width away from the cord. </div>
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You will end up with a 3/8" seam allowance. When the double piping is applied to the garment move the needle position in one click closer to the cord to ensure the original stitching lines from the construction of the double piping do not show. </div>
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Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-55442167134993427852014-05-31T21:14:00.001-07:002014-05-31T21:14:52.222-07:00Remake of 'Sweetheart' and Bullion Rose Tutorial<div style="text-align: justify;">
I have had many requests for kits for the 'Sweetheart' project that was featured on the cover of the Australian edition of 'Cute As a Button' which is the EXACT same book as the American edition titled 'Sew Cute Couture". Believe me.... I know it's all a bit confusing. Unfortunately both titles are now out of print and can be a bit tricky to find at a reasonable price. If you happen to know of a good source that still has them please let me know. </div>
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The jacket for the original 'Sweetheart ' project was made from 100% wool Doctors flannel which started out as ivory. I had tried to dye it lavender with a different project in mind with very limited success. Because I thought I had ruined the fabric I figured there was nothing to loose and I threw it in a pot of hot water with a bottle of Rit brand black dye. The wool took the black dye beautifully. You would never know it was once a very unattractive mottled lavender. The bishop dress and jacket trim fabric is probably one of my all time favorite Liberty prints. I am being polite when I say it is a 'vintage' Liberty. It was from back when the dinosaurs still roamed the earth and Liberty prints were only 36" wide. I would like to hear from some of you fabric hoarders (you know who you are!) who still have 36" wide Liberty prints waiting for just the right project. So..... clearly it was not possible to provide kits for the project as shown as both the jacket and dress fabric were a bit obscure and completely unavailable. </div>
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My remake of the project is Dakota pique for the jacket and a lovely paisley lawn for the dress, both trimmed with 1/32" pima micro check. You might recognize the paisley lawn from a previous post. I love this fabric. It is not an easy thing to find a good quality lightweight cotton lawn in a small scale print in several nice color ways. My rule of thumb when choosing a print to coordinate with an embroidered jacket is to look for at least three distinct colors in the print and a good green. This lawn more than fits that criteria. </div>
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The kit will be available in three color ways on my Etsy site.. I would like to give a big shout out to my friends at www.hillcreekdesigns.com who make all the custom colors in hand dyed buttons for me. <br />
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There are probably as many ways to make a bullion rose as there are people making them. I would like to include my take on the classic spiral bullion. These instructions are for big chunky roses as shown on the 'Sweetheart' jacket.<br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Spiral
Bullion Rose:</span></b></div>
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<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">work with three strands of floss and a # 7 milliners needle</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">it is helpful to interface the area behind the embroidery</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">use three colors of floss plus a green. Use a contrast for the center and two shades of pink or red (a light and a medium shade) for the spiral rose petals. Use the darker shade for the center fifteen wrap spiral bullions and the lighter shade for the outer twenty-two wrap spiral bullions.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">the spiral bullion is made in four sections (colors):</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">center - one, five wrap bullion and two, ten wrap bullions</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">inner petals - six, fifteen wrap spirals</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">outer petals - eight, twenty-two wrap spirals</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif;">leaf base - four, twenty four wrap spirals</span></li>
</ul>
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</o:lock></v:path></v:stroke></v:shapetype><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_3" o:spid="_x0000_s2087" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 414.8pt; margin-top: 13.3pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 119.9pt; z-index: 251660288;" type="#_x0000_t75">
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">1.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_2" o:spid="_x0000_s2086" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 284.35pt; margin-top: .65pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 122.1pt; z-index: 251659264;" type="#_x0000_t75">
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</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Work one, five wrap
bullion at the center point.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">2.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Bring
the needle back to the left and take a new backstitch to make one, ten wrap
bullion that cups beneath the five wrap bullion.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">3.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_5" o:spid="_x0000_s2085" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 414.7pt; margin-top: .9pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 119.85pt; z-index: 251662336;" type="#_x0000_t75">
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<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_4" o:spid="_x0000_s2084" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 283.5pt; margin-top: .9pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251661312;" type="#_x0000_t75">
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<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Turn the work
completely over and make a second ten wrap bullion.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">4.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">To
make the first fifteen wrap spiral bullion, bring the needle up at about
11:00. Leave a gap, the width of one
bullion stitch, between the entry point of the thread and the center bullion
stitches. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">5.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Backstitch
about ¼ of the way around the center. Make
the first fifteen wrap bullion.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"> </span><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w81bmhNBtV4/U4qco7XWezI/AAAAAAAAAx8/V8vkEumO9GM/s1600/P1100739.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w81bmhNBtV4/U4qco7XWezI/AAAAAAAAAx8/V8vkEumO9GM/s1600/P1100739.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">6.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">To
make the second fifteen wrap spiral bullion, drop the needle to the back of the
work and bring it up at the half way point on the first spiral bullion. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">7.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Backstitch
about ¼ of the way around the center and make a second fifteen wrap spiral
bullion.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fnwyCRRtR00/U4qdUkFTmiI/AAAAAAAAAyM/U46UuhWVhio/s1600/P1100741.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fnwyCRRtR00/U4qdUkFTmiI/AAAAAAAAAyM/U46UuhWVhio/s1600/P1100741.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aDBCzjlHmp8/U4qeFKFebFI/AAAAAAAAAyY/qpy--6ukesQ/s1600/P1100743.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aDBCzjlHmp8/U4qeFKFebFI/AAAAAAAAAyY/qpy--6ukesQ/s1600/P1100743.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">8.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_12" o:spid="_x0000_s2079" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 162.45pt; margin-top: 4pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 119.85pt; z-index: 251669504;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image009.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_13" o:spid="_x0000_s2078" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 292.5pt; margin-top: 3.8pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120pt; z-index: 251670528;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image010.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_16" o:spid="_x0000_s2077" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 422.3pt; margin-top: 3.7pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 119.9pt; z-index: 251672576;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image011.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Repeat Steps 6-7 to
make the third, fourth and fifth spiral bullions. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Icx7wU7zNm8/U4qd3D1jVgI/AAAAAAAAAyQ/Ou3CIugdLdw/s1600/P1100744.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Icx7wU7zNm8/U4qd3D1jVgI/AAAAAAAAAyQ/Ou3CIugdLdw/s1600/P1100744.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O40JvkYRzzU/U4qejgJki6I/AAAAAAAAAyo/x3zTxfud3qA/s1600/P1100746.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O40JvkYRzzU/U4qejgJki6I/AAAAAAAAAyo/x3zTxfud3qA/s1600/P1100746.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YWsuNUgyuX4/U4qevYt53yI/AAAAAAAAAyw/eMpz20UUAzs/s1600/P1100748.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YWsuNUgyuX4/U4qevYt53yI/AAAAAAAAAyw/eMpz20UUAzs/s1600/P1100748.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">9.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_17" o:spid="_x0000_s2076" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 294.1pt; margin-top: 1.05pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 119.9pt; z-index: 251673600;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image012.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_18" o:spid="_x0000_s2075" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 422.3pt; margin-top: 1.05pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 119.9pt; z-index: 251674624;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image013.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The sixth, and final
fifteen wrap spiral bullion is made be bringing the needle up at the half way
point of the fifth fifteen wrap spiral bullion.
Backstitch about ¼ of the way around the center bringing the needle in close
to the center, to the inside of the first fifteen wrap spiral bullion. Make the sixth fifteen wrap spiral bullion.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_19" o:spid="_x0000_s2074" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 292.75pt; margin-top: 10.85pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 119.85pt; z-index: 251675648;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image014.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_20" o:spid="_x0000_s2073" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 420.85pt; margin-top: 10.85pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 119.9pt; z-index: 251676672;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image015.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IU8rPUYOgg8/U4qfapusukI/AAAAAAAAAzA/16LYf2GEETE/s1600/P1100750.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IU8rPUYOgg8/U4qfapusukI/AAAAAAAAAzA/16LYf2GEETE/s1600/P1100750.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">10.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">To make the first 22 wrap spiral
bullion bring the needle up at 11:00 leaving a gap the width of one spiral
bullion stitch. Backstitch about 20% of
the way around the center fifteen wrap spiral bullions.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_22" o:spid="_x0000_s2072" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 294.3pt; margin-top: 9.2pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 119.9pt; z-index: 251677696;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image016.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_22" o:spid="_x0000_s2072" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 294.3pt; margin-top: 9.2pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 119.9pt; z-index: 251677696;" type="#_x0000_t75"><br /></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_22" o:spid="_x0000_s2072" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 294.3pt; margin-top: 9.2pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 119.9pt; z-index: 251677696;" type="#_x0000_t75"><br /></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_23" o:spid="_x0000_s2071" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 420.4pt; margin-top: 9.2pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 119.9pt; z-index: 251678720;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image017.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">11.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Make the first twenty-two wrap spiral
bullion. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ssAMB6b6jQU/U4qfwhiGtkI/AAAAAAAAAzQ/Gx7dTUSv7q4/s1600/P1100752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ssAMB6b6jQU/U4qfwhiGtkI/AAAAAAAAAzQ/Gx7dTUSv7q4/s1600/P1100752.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QfSYl3gLta8/U4qf63xHzoI/AAAAAAAAAzY/Llzz29EH_1I/s1600/P1100753.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QfSYl3gLta8/U4qf63xHzoI/AAAAAAAAAzY/Llzz29EH_1I/s1600/P1100753.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">12.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Make the second through seventh twenty-two
wrap spiral bullions in the same manner as the previous color spiral bullions.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<br /></div>
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<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image018.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_14" o:spid="_x0000_s2069" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 419.55pt; margin-top: 10.95pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 119.85pt; z-index: 251680768;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image019.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">13.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The eighth and final twenty two wrap
spiral bullion is made by bringing the needle up at the halfway point on the
seventh twenty-two wrap spiral bullion.
Backstitch about 20% of the way around the center, bringing the needle
in close to the fifteen wrap spiral bullions.
Make the eighth twenty-two wrap spiral bullion. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3eJovSONZOk/U4qgZdmGG0I/AAAAAAAAAzo/CZUDL7C2xMU/s1600/P1100755.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3eJovSONZOk/U4qgZdmGG0I/AAAAAAAAAzo/CZUDL7C2xMU/s1600/P1100755.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-01fd5y7JWrw/U4qgi6tDTOI/AAAAAAAAAzw/E3hnsI3blCM/s1600/P1100756.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-01fd5y7JWrw/U4qgi6tDTOI/AAAAAAAAAzw/E3hnsI3blCM/s1600/P1100756.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">14.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_21" o:spid="_x0000_s2068" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 289.5pt; margin-top: -3.5pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 119.9pt; z-index: 251681792;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image020.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_25" o:spid="_x0000_s2067" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 420pt; margin-top: -3.5pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 119.85pt; z-index: 251682816;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image021.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Bring the green in
about 2/3’s of the way up on the left hand side of the spiral bullion rose. Backstitch about 20% of the way around the
rose.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-e8hpPhcu7CY/U4qgrcvYhII/AAAAAAAAAz4/o7yHaPD6f8E/s1600/P1100757.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-e8hpPhcu7CY/U4qgrcvYhII/AAAAAAAAAz4/o7yHaPD6f8E/s1600/P1100757.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vea7oqKuXBM/U4qg2aNvSVI/AAAAAAAAA0A/Bt8IjC3GT5Y/s1600/P1100758.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vea7oqKuXBM/U4qg2aNvSVI/AAAAAAAAA0A/Bt8IjC3GT5Y/s1600/P1100758.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">15.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; text-indent: -0.25in;">Make a twenty four
wrap spiral bullion.</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; text-indent: -0.25in;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; text-indent: -0.25in;">Make the second,
third, and fourth green spiral bullions in the same manner.</span><span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; text-indent: -0.25in;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; text-indent: -0.25in;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SHJLSMBteBQ/U4qhI3jButI/AAAAAAAAA0I/MpAqb3osWoQ/s1600/P1100759.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SHJLSMBteBQ/U4qhI3jButI/AAAAAAAAA0I/MpAqb3osWoQ/s1600/P1100759.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GX6J-tBiJ9Y/U4qhSScolJI/AAAAAAAAA0Q/jZLbRuYwIj8/s1600/P1100760.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GX6J-tBiJ9Y/U4qhSScolJI/AAAAAAAAA0Q/jZLbRuYwIj8/s1600/P1100760.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-136HEaMQ8IU/U4qhclUa3DI/AAAAAAAAA0Y/a11l_aGA1q8/s1600/P1100761.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-136HEaMQ8IU/U4qhclUa3DI/AAAAAAAAA0Y/a11l_aGA1q8/s1600/P1100761.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6DR0FIpHiHk/U4qh26E_KeI/AAAAAAAAA0g/7_bPp5gGnHs/s1600/P1100762.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6DR0FIpHiHk/U4qh26E_KeI/AAAAAAAAA0g/7_bPp5gGnHs/s1600/P1100762.JPG" height="230" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mqzu3kKl9jU/U4qiEOHxakI/AAAAAAAAA0o/1meEpqn7ibc/s1600/P1100763.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mqzu3kKl9jU/U4qiEOHxakI/AAAAAAAAA0o/1meEpqn7ibc/s1600/P1100763.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ahl8OWOdvGc/U4qiQ5TO3ZI/AAAAAAAAA0w/NYDPHPEMxM4/s1600/P1100764.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ahl8OWOdvGc/U4qiQ5TO3ZI/AAAAAAAAA0w/NYDPHPEMxM4/s1600/P1100764.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="text-align: justify;">
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_32" o:spid="_x0000_s2061" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 420.2pt; margin-top: 10.85pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 119.9pt; z-index: 251689984;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image027.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_31" o:spid="_x0000_s2060" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 282.75pt; margin-top: 10.2pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120.15pt; z-index: 251688960;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image028.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">16.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Stitch the heart button at the
indicated position. Use three strands of floss to outline stitch the stem line.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lU92JszPxTs/U4qicUlGaNI/AAAAAAAAA08/LwOcp6l2I8w/s1600/P1100765.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lU92JszPxTs/U4qicUlGaNI/AAAAAAAAA08/LwOcp6l2I8w/s1600/P1100765.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cTW_KeAaYuI/U4qimggXGdI/AAAAAAAAA1E/99vKgDIOqVU/s1600/P1100766.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cTW_KeAaYuI/U4qimggXGdI/AAAAAAAAA1E/99vKgDIOqVU/s1600/P1100766.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_34" o:spid="_x0000_s2059" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 418pt; margin-top: 12.4pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 122pt; z-index: 251692032;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image029.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">17.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><v:shape id="Picture_x0020_33" o:spid="_x0000_s2058" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 282.75pt; margin-top: -.25pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 120.3pt; z-index: 251691008;" type="#_x0000_t75">
<v:imagedata o:title="" src="file:///C:\Users\MOM'SL~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image030.jpg">
<w:wrap type="square">
</w:wrap></v:imagedata></v:shape><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">To make the bows draw
a ¾” long line on a piece of paper. Mark
the center point and the ends of the ¾” line.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X2sZETBfdqU/U4qjHbPAvKI/AAAAAAAAA1M/jCHPijcI2a8/s1600/P1100769.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X2sZETBfdqU/U4qjHbPAvKI/AAAAAAAAA1M/jCHPijcI2a8/s1600/P1100769.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">18.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Using ¼” wide silk/satin ribbon cut
the end on a 45° angle. Fold the ribbon
in on itself half the distance of the ¾” line and secure with a pin. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2rAQK7n2vnY/U4qjQ7ZxKrI/AAAAAAAAA1U/tMT5kdYtTjc/s1600/P1100770.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2rAQK7n2vnY/U4qjQ7ZxKrI/AAAAAAAAA1U/tMT5kdYtTjc/s1600/P1100770.JPG" height="236" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin-left: 57.0pt; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo2; text-align: justify; text-indent: -.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="text-align: justify;">
<v:shape id="Picture_x0020_36" o:spid="_x0000_s2057" strokecolor="black [3213]" stroked="t" strokeweight=".5pt" style="height: 90pt; left: 0; margin-left: 420.15pt; margin-top: 5.05pt; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-percent: 0; mso-height-relative: page; mso-position-horizontal-relative: text; mso-position-horizontal: absolute; mso-position-vertical-relative: text; mso-position-vertical: absolute; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-percent: 0; mso-width-relative: page; mso-wrap-distance-bottom: 0; mso-wrap-distance-left: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-right: 9pt; mso-wrap-distance-top: 0; mso-wrap-style: square; position: absolute; text-align: left; visibility: visible; width: 119.85pt; z-index: 251694080;" type="#_x0000_t75">
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">19.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Fold in the second loop keeping the
cut end of the ribbon on the inside and secure with the pin. Fold in a third loop directly behind the
second loop and secure with the pin. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">20.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Fold in the fourth and final loop
resulting with two sets of two loops stacked on top of each other and secure
with the pin. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">21.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Cut the ribbon on the back side on a
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: Arial;">22.<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Using a hand sewing needle and doubled
thread in a matching color to the ribbon, bring the thread up through the
center of the bow. Wrap the thread
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Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-67570614275878293782014-05-01T08:31:00.000-07:002014-05-01T08:34:49.760-07:00Flower Girl Dress for Jane<div style="text-align: justify;">
Jane is very excited to be a flower girl next month and the occasion called for a special dress. I chose a luscious ivory silk shantung to smock a VERY simple sleeveless yoke dress. The fabric was challenging to pleat ( a BIT of an understatement!) but I was very pleased with the finished results. I did iron on a layer of very lightweight interfacing to the back of the pleated area prior to running it through the pleater. <span style="text-align: center;">The fabric is amazing. It does not crush or wrinkle as many silks would. Should be perfect for an active, never stand still, kind of a girl.</span></div>
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I chose Marlitt (rayon) floss to do all the smocking and embroidery because of it's beautiful sheen. It's a bit of a nightmare to work with but I love the end result. I was lucky to find Swarovski crystal beads in just the right colors to complement the smocking. In the daylight the front of the dress really sparkles.</div>
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The back of the dress is finished off with a large silk organza bow - only a cute four year old could pull that off! I also added a touch of sparkle to the back of the dress with beaded sash carriers.</div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">The dress is lightweight and should not be too fussy for her to feel comfortable wearing. I will post pictures of Jane wearing the dress next month.</span></div>
Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-74853695999880300462014-04-04T19:20:00.000-07:002014-04-06T11:14:47.549-07:00Finally... Something new!<div style="text-align: justify;">
After a long absence of complete non stop busy I finally have something new to post. This project will be for classes later in the year. I am having a bit of an obsession with small scale prints paired with feather weight corduroy and this set keeps it going. The paisley cotton lawn print is from a Robert Kaufman collection called 'London Calling' and is a lovely 'Liberty' like knock off. I have paired the print with the feather weight corduroy to look like a jumper and blouse but it is really all sewn together as a dress. </div>
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The collar is piped with the lavender corduroy and trimmed with a bias cut ruffle. Not the easiest collar to assemble and get to kiss together right at the center front and center back. The skirt has three large box pleats across the front and two inverted pleats in the back for a controlled amount of fullness. The dress is meant to be paired with a jacket and I wanted to keep an A line shape to the skirt. </div>
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The jacket is completely interlined with 'baby' interfacing for better weight and wrinkle resistance to the feather weight corduroy. It is fully lined with lime 1/32" micro check and has an adjustable fold up sleeve length. The embroidery on the pockets are simple beginner hand stitches - chain, French knot, and backstitch. The little bird is just one of the paisley shapes from the print inverted and embellished.</div>
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The 'London Calling' paisley comes in three great color ways which I plan to pair with the lavender, red, and hot pink corduroy.</div>
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One of my granddaughters showed up unexpectedly this morning - I really think it was to claim the cookies that were just coming out of the oven but I took the opportunity to have her do a little try on. Jane will be five in July and is wearing a size 4 dress and jacket.<br />
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Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-80114846607156252502013-09-23T14:37:00.001-07:002013-09-23T14:37:14.221-07:00When I Grow Up I Want To Be........<div style="text-align: center;">
When I grow up I want to be just like Miss Dot. I had the immense pleasure of spending a few days with Miss Dot in Richmond Virginia this past month. Miss Dot is a well know figure in the heirloom sewing world and at just shy of 90 years young is still sewing up a storm. I could not have been more impressed with anyone. She is blessed with a quick wit, a gentle spirit, and a major gift with a needle in her hand.</div>
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It was my privilege to spend time stitching (please excuse the casual attire!) side by side with this gracious lady. She can convey more with one arched eyebrow than 1000 words could speak. Clearly I have lots to learn!</div>
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Miss Dot was up for the challenge of participating in a three day class to make this corduroy scalloped jacket and matching dress. May we all be as engaged and willing to try something new when we reach her years. She was a model student who probably REALLY should have been the teacher.</div>
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I also managed to get to Colorado to see some of my grand kids this past month. They don't think I'm that much fun but can hardly wait for my two teenagers to show up. This is Hailey modelling a version of 'April in Paris' from AS&E issue #80 with her Aunt Doireann (my youngest daughter) who has spent many years putting up with modelling dresses for me.</div>
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Not to forget the boys... My youngest son could not sit down without a niece or nephew landing in his lap and it usually turned into an entire chair full.<br />
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My sewing days are long over for these big boys but they are clearly the life of any party.</div>
Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-920525443629758412013-07-07T17:16:00.002-07:002013-07-07T18:18:00.140-07:00Red White and BlueHappy Canada Day (July 1st) and Happy July 4th<br />
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It just sort of worked out that my current project is red, white, and blue. Two little sailor rompers in a size 1. </div>
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The girl and boy versions have a white linen top and a 1/32" cotton micro check bottom. The bodice front has a pulled thread grid which was machine stitched with an entredeux stitch and then the red or blue floss was woven through the holes created by the machine. The sailor collar and sleeve cuff feature a line of hand stitched double feather stitch. The girl sleeve has some 'puff' at the cap in contrast to the fitted sleeve on the little boy romper.</div>
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The sewn in shaped belts are piped at top and bottom. The girl romper has a tie sash in the back and the boy version is more tailored with a lapped button back belt. These rompers are a bit more complicated to put together than they might appear. I like everything to line up at the center back and this project presented a few challenges in that department. </div>
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These rompers in sizes 1-3 will be a new class for me in 2014. I think they are a good mix of a 'do-able' project paired with lots of interesting design and construction details. </div>
Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-58694766805879378132013-05-30T13:30:00.000-07:002013-05-30T13:30:13.367-07:00Girls Just WanNa Have Fun<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Sew, laugh, eat, sew, laugh, eat, sew, laugh, eat - repeat from beginning for a week!. I have just come home from a sewing retreat with the most fabulous group of friends in the most charming location. Welcome to Petticoat Junction in Normandy Tennessee.<br />
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The Junction is a retreat house which sleeps 15 in 'dormitory' style rooms with a large open sewing space on the upper floor.<br />
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This gives you just a little look at the bedrooms. There was a beautiful dining room where home cooked catered meals appeared as if by magic. Is there anything better than dinner showing up after a full day of stitching?<br />
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A comfortable sitting room was available for watching movies and hanging out at night but I have to admit I don't think any of us stepped a foot in there - too much sew, laugh, eat.........<br />
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The entire house was a delight with vintage photos, good books on every shelf, and a screened back porch (complete with daybed) with a swing that was a perfect spot for early morning coffee and stitching. There was even a little shaded table out in the side yard.<br />
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The big open room upstairs had lots of natural light and a terrific 'feel'. Notice the color coordinated work stations - these girls are serious!<br />
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Most afternoons we took a break and walked around the little town. There was a bit of 'strut' going on with some reliving their high school days. Others (who shall remain anonymous) felt it necessary to take their sangria for a walk. If you look closely you may notice someone is still in pajamas - clearly the dress code was a few steps below casual.<br />
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The week would not have been complete without a late night trip to a neighboring town for a Walmart run. There was also a little bit of 'strut' going on there. It's amazing how much stuff looks appealing when you are with eight sleep deprived women late at night in a Walmart.<br />
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As luck would have it Petticoat Junction is right next door to a lovely local dining spot which served a 'knock your socks off' Sunday buffet (which I learned is really a boo-fay!) You know you are in the south when the sweet tea is served in Mason Jars. Clearly no one went hungry. We were also treated to some live music.<br />
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I think it is safe to say a good time was had by all - even the one that slept through being toilet papered to her bed or the 'young one' that kept a good attitude with us 'worrisome' and 'troubled' older women and provided unending tech support.<br />
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I would like to send a big shout out THANK YOU to eight really terrific, funny, smart, compassionate, gorgeous women who were the best company I could have ever asked for. I even got a little bit of my own stitching done - another version of my new dress and jacket.</div>
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You know the old saying "a picture is worth a thousand words" - this last photo sums up a perfect week. </div>
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Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-55011963514541499872013-05-16T10:09:00.000-07:002013-05-16T12:09:57.951-07:00Corduroy Swing JacketI have had lots of requests to expand the size range of the swing style jacket that was published in my Sew Cute Couture book (Cute As A Button if you have the Australian publication - the content of both books is exactly the same) The original jacket was sized 6 months through 3 years and was styled with a full cut sleeve and a back yoke with a 2" center back pleat for width to accommodate the fullness of the matching bishop dress. Here's a couple of different fabric variations made up from the pattern in the book.<br />
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My new project is made up in black feather wale corduroy with lots (lots!) of periwinkle blue corduroy piping. Because the feather wale corduroy is not really heavy enough to be jacket weight I fused light weight interfacing to the back of the uncut yardage prior to cutting out the pattern pieces. It gave the corduroy a beautiful 'hand' and great stability which I think saved me when trying to pipe around all the scalloped edges.</div>
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The jacket has a more tailored two piece sleeve and allows for a turn back cuff in the contrast fabric. This turn back sleeve also buys adjustment and growth room. The back of the jacket has lots of visual interest with a scalloped, piped yoke overlay and a 3" box pleat down the center back. </div>
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I had enough of the coordinating dress fabric left over so I chose it as a lining for the jacket. This jacket goes together completely on the machine with the exception of the little bit of hand work involved making the cast-on stitch flowers on the self fabric covered buttons. </div>
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The coordinating under dress has a sewn in piped corduroy belt and shaped corduroy cuff on the sleeve to tie in with the scalloped and piped edges on the jacket. The button down the back skirt of the dress is pleated rather than gathered onto the bodice. It gives a nice tailored look while still keeping the 'twirl' factor in the fullness of the skirt. </div>
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I used two very helpful items making this project. The first is this applique foot to make and apply my piping. It's not sold as a piping foot but it is perfection for making and applying mini piping -especially around curves. It has a center groove that holds the cord perfectly in place and is very short to allow easy movement around curves. The second is a little gadget called a 'perfect pleater' which I used to attach the skirt to the bodice of the dress. I am also in love with my new Pfaff Creative Performance. After 20 years of sewing on a Pfaff 7550 a new machine is showing this old dog a few new tricks! </div>
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I will size this jacket and dress in a 4-8 for classes in the fall. I'm getting ready to try another one in this fabric combination. I am making a concentrated effort to use up some of my stashed Liberty prints.</div>
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Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-60475380371569709282013-01-06T18:46:00.001-08:002013-01-09T06:50:40.773-08:00Remake of a FavoriteThe original version of the dress was published several years ago by Country Bumpkin. It was called April in Paris and was on the cover of issue #80. They could not have picked a more perfect model.<br />
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The dress was made from blue Swiss batiste and the jacket all ivory laces worked over a layer of ivory silk organza. While Swiss batiste is a lovely fabric to work with, it's wrinkle factor can be a bit of a nightmare to deal with. My dress remake is a beautiful small woven check white on white Swiss voile.<br />
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It's sheer but not wimpy and beautifully wrinkle resistant. I think it is creeping up into being one of my top three favorite fabrics.<br />
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The cut away over jacket is all white Swiss and French laces worked over a layer of white silk organza. The sleeveless smocked dress stands quite well on it's own and dresses up very well with the added lace jacket. The smocking and embroidery is all worked with rayon thread which I have to admit made me a bit crazy. Love the finished result but don't love the process of working with the rayon threads<br />
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This remake is a bit of a 'two birds with one stone' project. I will use it as a class project during 2013 and it will be a birthday dress for a much loved granddaughter who will turn 8 in August. The lavender and white combination is her mother's favorite and a little nod to her christening dress which was designed in the same color palette. It does not seem possible she is already almost eight. The photo of Hailey and her mom, my second daughter Megan, is one of my favorites.<br />
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<br />Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-35063173257325956052012-11-20T11:28:00.001-08:002012-11-20T11:28:43.668-08:00Liberty Love<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Sometimes fabrics just speak to you. This Liberty print says it all to me - love it!</div>
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The under dress is all ivory PERFECTLY matched laces and batiste. I have to give a big shout out to Capital Imports and Farmhouse Fabrics for providing these beautiful materials. We all know there are many, many shades of ivory, some which look good together, and some which REALLY don't. This can be a big frustration when planning a project with multiple laces and fabrics. Thumbs up!!! <br />
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Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-27822389538255825222012-11-11T05:14:00.000-08:002012-11-11T17:16:42.710-08:00Another Capri Set<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'm been having a bit of fun making capri sets that incorporate heirloom techniques in the small size manageable format of a swing top and pants - not yards and yards of full skirts and ruffles. This one has a bit of hand embroidery, button centered cast-on flowers connected with a chain stitch, an interesting two color entredeux edge trim, and lots of French bias bound edges.<br />
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The interfaced pockets have an embroidered, entredeux trimmed flap and are bound with 1/16" lime microcheck. I like to prefinish my bindings to the exact length needed, using a technique that angles the ending seam allowance away from the final finished edge. It gives a much cleaner, less bulky finish than trying to tuck the binding end seam allowances in at the finished edges. I prefinished the length of the bias bindings on the neckline, pockets, and lower edge of the swing top.<br />
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The edges of the pocket flaps, mock front yoke, and ruffle sleeves are finished with entredeux which has been trimmed and embellished with a cross stitch and running stitch in two contrasting colors.<br />
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The top fabric is petite point pique and is fully lined with Imperial batiste. The cuffed, reversible capris are fine line navy pique reversing to microcheck. This will be a new class project for 2013 in sizes 3-6. </div>
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I'm trying to step away from the traditional pastel pink/blue/ green color palette that is so lovely to work with but often over used. I'm making this set up in an alternate color way of aqua pique and orange microcheck. I don't think I've made anything orange in my entire life - well... maybe in the 70's but I can't be held responsible for that.</div>
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Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-54137393813661365632012-10-01T12:55:00.000-07:002012-10-01T12:55:52.391-07:00Farmhouse Fabrics Project for 2013<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This is a photo of the first version (kind of a trial run) of the project I'm planning for Farmhouse Fabrics next year. The cotton batiste underdress/slip could stand alone with a sash as a beach type dress of it could take on a very formal look worn under a velveteen or corduroy dark colored a-line jumper. I love the look of it paired with the smocked floral cotton lawn jumper.<br />
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The smocked jumper slips on over the head but has plenty of tricky construction points with all the piped, curved, French bias bound edges. The underdress/slip, as mentioned in my earlier post, includes lots of 1/8" tucks, Swiss and French laces, and a cotton netting collar. <br />
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I can't wait to start on the real deal - all ivory laces paired with my personal favorite fabric to sew on - Liberty Tana Lawn. The print I have chosen to use is from their classic collection and is called 'Bourton'.<br />
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Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-39434377428839037792012-09-23T10:22:00.000-07:002012-09-23T10:30:04.755-07:00My Mountain<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The change of season never fails to take my breath away in this beautiful wild place. I'm lucky enough to be able to walk out my back door and be here in less than eight minutes.<br />
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Favorite all time quote - <br />
" Run the mile you are in"<br />
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This is a little look at the project I'm working on to teach at Farmhouse Fabrics in 2013. The lacy underdress/slip has lots of Swiss and French laces, 1/8" tucks, and a tucked netting collar. All the things that make my heart go pitter patter. The smocked jumper which can be worn over the underdress should be ready by next week. Stay tuned.Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-19975063986736400702012-07-20T04:54:00.000-07:002012-07-20T05:03:23.015-07:00Something In the Middle<div style="text-align: justify;">
This next set sits somewhere in the middle between a fancy dress and play clothes. It's dressy enough for many occasions but kid friendly enough for everyday wear.</div>
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The swing top and capri pants are made from 100% cotton pique - probably one of my most go to fabrics. It's lovely to work with, is durable enough to hold up to what most kids dish out, and washes very nicely.</div>
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The swing top has 5, 1/4" released tucks across each front overlayed with a block of joined Swiss insertions and beadings. </div>
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The same tucks and Swiss insertion block is repeated across the back of the top. The angel sleeves are trimmed with coordinating Swiss edging. The swing top has a partial lining to allow for a nice finish around the arms eye. </div>
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The bottoms of the swing top and capri pants are finished off with the Swiss beading and Swiss edging joined to look as one piece. This will be another of my class proposals for the Martha Pullen School in 2013. </div>
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</div>Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-26651844601530321792012-07-01T06:06:00.000-07:002012-07-01T16:08:45.212-07:00Is There Still Room for the Traditional?I think I am a dinasaur. I think the little girl sewing world might have moved to a place I just can't go to. Don't get me wrong - I think alot of it is quite charming but it's just not me. I'm stuck on the traditional. I keep pondering the possibility of William and Kate producing a royal daughter and the possibility (the quite real possibility) of Kate choosing to dress her in a very traditional style. I think it would make people like me instantly 'cool' again. Just think, everytime you looked at the cover of a People magazine there would be a little girl in a traditional smocked dress. Now that's progress for us dinasaurs. Let me know what you think about this.<br />
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So, in the spirit of the traditional I have a few photos of another project I will most likely propose to teach next year at the Martha Pullen school. I love ( repeat LOVE!) real dotted Swiss. It has a beautiful hand, is quite wrinkle resistant, and washes beautifully. Anyone born in the 50's or 60's will surely have a memory of wearing a dotted Swiss dress. <br />
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I picked the dots out of the fabric in the area to pleated. It leaves you with a nice plain surface to smock on. I also interfaced the area to be pleated with a lightweight fusible interfacing. The dotted Swiss is very fine and pleats down to almost nothing. The interfacing adds fullnes to your pleats and makes it much nicer to smock on.<br />
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The teardrop collar is made from plain white Swiss voile and trimmed with shaped premade robin's egg microcheck spaghetti bias. The two bias edges are joined with a hand 'bridging' stitch. A few cast-on stitch posies help bring some of the pink in the smocking up into the collar. <br />
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I'm very lucky to have daughter's who still will dress their daughter's in traditional style dresses. I'm counting on Kate to help bring some of this back. But, even if she doesn't, I'll probably stay right where I'm at.<br />
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P.S. Happy Canada Day!Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-23741366036820184892012-06-24T19:10:00.000-07:002012-06-24T19:10:08.545-07:00A Little A-Line Skirt (with lots of details)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This is a completely new project for me and a bit of a departure from my usual traditional smocked dresses. The skirt is made from white Spechler/Vogel waffle weave pique and fully lined with Imperial batiste. It has a lap zipper on the left side seam and an all machine microcheck bias waist facing that allows for button hole elastic across the back of the skirt for a custom fit.<br />
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The piped microcheck belt is held in place with four turned bias belt carriers and forms a bow at the front when tied in a knot. The belt also helps with a custom fit on the skirt.<br />
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The hem of the skirt is a 1 1/2" bias cut pleated band. I used a new (to me, at least!) little gadget, borrowed from the home dec world, for making the 1/2" pleats and it worked like a charm. I'll be using this clever little thing on lots of other projects in the future. It also comes in a 3/4" and a 1" size.<br />
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The simple to construct microcheck peasant blouse buttons down the back and features a scoop neckline with a smocked ruffle made from petite point. The long straight edge of the neckline ruffle provides a good place to perfect the use of your dreaded roll hem foot. I fiddled around a bit with mine, trying different size roll hem feet (ended up with the 3mm one) and different needle positions. I was VERY pleased with the final results.<br />
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I can usually tell if I have travelled in the right direction by my granddaughter's reactions to new projects and I am happy to report that this one has passed the 'Hailey' test. This will be one of the projects I will be teaching at Sewing At the Beach in January of 2013. You can check out their website at <a href="http://www.sewingatthebeach.com/">www.sewingatthebeach.com</a>. The new information for 2013 should be up in early July.<br />
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The next series of photos are another take on this skirt. This time I paired it with my little tailored jacket with bound patch pockets and collar. The cotton knit tank top is bound with premade microcheck picot edge folded bias from Martha Pullen. The fabric flowers are made from a 3" by 13" strip of fabric. This will probably be one of the projects I submit to teach at the Martha Pullen School of Art Fashion in 2013. <br />
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<br />Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6959318398496938982.post-41889639400136060522012-03-31T17:20:00.000-07:002012-03-31T17:31:01.038-07:00Still Making Floofy's<br />
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I think I might need a twelve step program to get me to stop making floofy skirts. I love them. This set is a size 7 and is intended for my granddaughter Hailey next fall. I inherited a VERY LARGE box of beautiful novelty yarns from a generous friend who was in the process of moving and these turquoise and purples just jumped out of the box at me. <br />
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If you are new to knitting this might just be the project for you. All you need to know is a finished waist and a finished length measurement. The skirts are knit on circular needles and worked from the top down. You pick and choose when to throw in a new color or texture yarn. The skirt is held up by an I-cord run through knit in eyelets on the waistband. <br />
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The jacket is made from washable 100% wool and is fully lined with a purple silky lining. It has some nice menswear details with a shaped two piece sleeve and small shoulder pads supporting the shoulder area. I completely interfaced the wool with a lightweight fusible interfacing before cutting the pattern pieces and it gave the fabric a beautiful firm hand. The I-cord five petal flowers are a fun addition to coordinate the jacket with the skirt. A knitted hairband should be just the right touch to keep this soon to be seven year old fashionista happy.</div>Gail Doanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12824635691436582962noreply@blogger.com3