Tuesday, April 12, 2016

A Little Something Tailored

New project..... something that  might appeal to the more tailored young lady in your life.  A 3/4 length cotton pique jacket and coordinating A-line sailor collar dress.  Who does not like a red jacket?  It will pair beautifully with denim or white jeans for a more casual look. 

The red cotton pique jacket is fully lined (partially with the red pindot pique and partially with a white poly lining for ease slipping on and off) and features many precision construction details. Can you guess what is behind the two angle set piped bows?   Hint.... fully constructed single welt pockets with an angle cut underlap. 

The construction of the jacket back allows for a half belt, embellished with another piped bow, and a wearing ease pleat.  The sleeve lining has a turn back of the red pique which builds in at least a year of growth room for most girls.  

  The simple fully lined A-line dress, constructed from a red pin dot pique, is a nice diversion from full skirts and puffy sleeves. The piped sailor style collar curves into a Peter Pan style in the back.  The  piped set in sleeve offers a good challenge to incorporate enough ease without puckers or gathers across the cap of the sleeve. 

Welt pockets (single or double) can be quite challenging to perfect.  The following is my preferred method for constructing single welt pockets.  These instructions are part of one of my notebook classes titled 'Just Pockets'. 

Single Welt - Sample Swatch

1. Base Fabric:  10” long by 9” wide
    Base Fabric Interfacing:  10” long by 9” wide
    Pocket Lining:  7” long by 7” wide – cut 2
    Welt Fabric:  2 ½” long by 5 ½” wide
    Welt Interfacing:  2 ½” long by 5 ½” wide
    French Fuse:  3” long by 7” wide

2. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the welt.

3.  Right sides together, sew the short ends together. Trim and clip the corners.

4.  Turn right side out and press.

5. Measure down and draw a line 3” from the top edge of the base fabric.  Machine baste along this line.

6.  On the wrong side, center a 3” by 7” rectangle of French Fuse over the basted line and fuse in place.

7. Right sides together place the welt so the raw edge laps ¼” over the basted line.

8. Stitch on the welt taking up a ¼” seam allowance.  Begin and end EXACTLY at the ends of the welt.  Back stitch very carefully so no stitches extend beyond the welt.

9. On the right side, center one of the pocket lining squares over the welt, matching the top edges.

10. Flip the fabric over to the wrong side and stitch EXACTLY on the first stitching line.  Backstitch carefully at the beginning and end. 

12. On the right side, pin the second pocket lining square so it overlaps the previous stitching by ¼”.  Pin in place.

13. On the wrong side, draw in a line ½” above the original line.  Start and stop the line ½” shorter than the original line below it.  Stitch on the new line backstitching at the beginning and the end. 

14. On the wrong side, draw a line in between the two stitched lines. Draw two lines diagonally into the corners.

15.  Cut along the drawn line through the interfaced base fabric and the French Fuse only.  Do not cut through the pocket lining or the welt.  Cut diagonally into the corners. 

16. Pull the two pocket lining squares through to the wrong side through the slashed opening.  Press the welt carefully.  It is helpful to do the pressing over a ham. 

17. From the wrong side and with the base fabric folded back out of the way carefully stitch diagonally over the folded back pie shaped wedges at each end of the pocket. 

18. Continue stitching down the side of the pocket.  The lower edges of the pocket squares will not match.

19. Stitch across the bottom of the pocket and up the other side cutting in on a diagonal line to stitch over the folded back pie shaped wedge on the opposite side.

20.  On the right side, carefully stitch down the ends of the welt.

Tuesday, March 29, 2016

Jelly Roll Madness

I have been holding off posting these photos waiting on the release of the second issue of Classic Sewing Magazine.  I am so very pleased that my project has been chosen for the cover.  A big thank- you to Kathy and Phyllis for working so hard to produce this wonderful magazine,  

I know very little about the giant quilting world but have been having a bit of fun with jelly rolls.  A jelly roll is forty, 2 1/2" by 45"strips of coordinated fabric all rolled up in a cute little package.  They  look like this and are so much fun to work with.

  The first version of the jacket and dress came to life on a visit to Becky's Barn (www.beckybarn.blogspot.com) in Tennessee.  Becky (a completely fabulous quilter and all around great person) runs this wonderful retreat space with a quilting shop attached.  'Regent Street' from Moda immediately caught my eye and the first jelly roll jacket and dress was planned.  Unfortunately,  because fabric groups turn over so very quickly in the quilting world this particular group is no longer available. But the good news is new and lovely collections are always on the horizon.

On a teaching trip to Oregon I was lucky enough to have the perfect model and her perfect photographer mom volunteer to model and photograph the project. Many thanks to Gwen and her talented mom Virginia for these lovely photos. We never dreamed in the short time they were taken that the cover of a magazine was in the future for Gwen.   

I have made the project up in two other Moda collections.  There seems to be endless possibilities for placement of the different coordinating strips so each jelly roll will produce a unique result in the hands of each individual stitcher.  You are the designer.  The following photos are 'Hello Darling' and 'Hi-De-Ho' both from Moda.  Both of these collections are currently available in quilt shops,

I have just added kits on my Etsy site (www.etsy.com/shop/gaildoane) for the following collections;

Summerfest (May 2016), Backyard Roses (May 2016), and Fresh Market (June 2016) will be added as they become available.  

You can get a much better look at the fabrics in the various collections by going to www.unitednotions.com and typing the collection name in the search bar for the Moda collections and www.rileyblakedesigns.com for the Riley Blake collectons.

If you happen to have a stash of jelly rolls pull one out and give this project a try - one jelly roll will make up to a size 10 jacket with enough scraps left over for the trim on the angel sleeve, back belt, and scalloped hem of the dress.  Keep stitching!

P.S    Sneak peek of what's happening in my sewing room.  Kitty Grace.... more Liberty of London love.

Teaching Schedule for 2016

Teaching Schedule for 2016

January 2016
11-16 Sewing At the Beach
Myrtle Beach South Carolina
contact: www.sewingatthebeach.com

25-28 and 29- Feb 1 Children's Corner
Nashville Tennessee
contact: www.childrenscorner.com

March 2016
1-10 It's So Heavenly
La Fayette Louisiana
Contact: www.itssoheavenly.com

April 2016
1-2 New Orleans SAGA
New Orleans Louisiana

25 - May 1 Chadwick Heirlooms
Richmond Virginia
contact: pat@chadwickheirlooms.com

May 2016
Cape May SAGA
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

June 2016
20-23 Private Class
Dyersburg Tennessee

August 2016
1-7 Private Class
Becky's Barn, Grimsley Tennessee

Farmhouse Fabrics
Beech Island, South Carolina
contact: info@farmhousefabrics.com

September 2016
21-25 SAGA National Convention
contact: www.smocking.org

October 2016
5-12 Beating Around the Bush
Adelaide, South Australia

20-22 SAGA
Charleston, South Carolina

November 2016
4-5 Midnight Oil Smockers
Houston, Texas
contact: leslye.usner@yahoo.com (Leslye)

14-18 Private Class

For teaching information, a current class list, and available dates, contact gaildoane@hotmail.com