Corduroy Swing Jacket

I have had lots of requests to expand the size range of the swing style jacket that was published in my Sew Cute Couture book (Cute As A Button if you have the Australian publication - the content of both books is exactly the same)  The original jacket was sized 6 months through 3 years and was styled with a full cut sleeve and a back yoke with a 2" center back pleat for width to accommodate the fullness of the matching bishop dress.  Here's a couple of different fabric variations made up from the pattern in the book.

My new project is made up in black feather wale corduroy with lots (lots!) of periwinkle blue corduroy piping. Because the feather wale corduroy is not really heavy enough to be jacket weight I fused light weight interfacing to the back of the uncut yardage prior to cutting out the pattern pieces.  It gave the corduroy a beautiful  'hand' and great stability which I think saved me when trying to pipe around all the scalloped edges.

 The jacket has a more tailored two piece sleeve and allows for a turn back cuff in the contrast fabric.  This turn back sleeve also buys adjustment and growth room.  The back of the jacket has lots of visual interest with a scalloped, piped yoke overlay and a 3" box pleat down the center back. 

 I had enough of the coordinating dress fabric left over so I chose it as a lining for the jacket.  This jacket goes together completely on the machine with the exception of the little bit of hand work involved making the cast-on stitch flowers on the self fabric covered buttons. 

The coordinating under dress has a sewn in piped corduroy belt and shaped corduroy cuff on the sleeve to tie in with the scalloped and piped edges on the jacket.  The button down the back skirt of the dress is pleated rather than gathered onto the bodice.  It gives a nice tailored look while still keeping the 'twirl' factor in the fullness of the skirt.  

I used two very helpful items making this project.  The first is this applique foot to make and apply my piping.  It's not sold as a piping foot but it is perfection for making and applying mini piping -especially around curves.  It has a center groove that holds the cord perfectly in place and is very short to allow easy movement around curves.  The second is a little gadget called a 'perfect pleater' which I used to attach the skirt to the bodice of the dress.  I am also in love with my new Pfaff Creative Performance.  After 20 years of sewing on a Pfaff 7550 a new machine is showing this old dog a few new tricks!    

I will size this jacket and dress in a 4-8 for classes in the fall.  I'm getting ready to try another one in this fabric combination.  I am making a concentrated effort to use up some of my stashed Liberty prints.

Remake of a Favorite

The original version of the dress was published several years ago by Country Bumpkin.  It was called April in Paris and was on the cover of issue #80.  They could not have picked a more perfect model.

The dress was  made from blue Swiss batiste and the jacket all ivory laces worked over a layer of ivory silk organza.  While Swiss batiste is a lovely fabric to work with, it's wrinkle factor can be a bit of a nightmare to deal with.  My dress remake is a beautiful small woven check white on white Swiss voile.

It's sheer but not wimpy and beautifully wrinkle resistant.  I think it is creeping up into being one of my top three favorite fabrics.

The cut away over jacket is all white Swiss and French laces worked over a layer of white silk organza.  The  sleeveless smocked dress stands quite well on it's own and dresses up very well with the added lace jacket.    The smocking and embroidery is all worked with rayon thread which I have to admit made me a bit crazy.  Love the finished result but don't love the process of working with the rayon threads

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This remake is a bit of a 'two birds with one stone' project.  I will use it as a class project during 2013 and it will be a birthday dress for a much loved granddaughter who will turn 8 in August.  The lavender and white combination is her mother's favorite and a little nod to her christening dress which was designed in the same color palette.  It does not seem possible she is already almost eight.  The photo of Hailey and her mom, my  second daughter Megan, is one of my favorites.

Liberty Love

 

 

Sometimes fabrics just speak to you.  This Liberty print says it all to me - love it!

 

 

 

 

The under dress is all ivory PERFECTLY matched laces and batiste.  I have to give a big shout out to Capital Imports and Farmhouse Fabrics for providing these beautiful materials.  We all know there are many, many shades of ivory, some which look good together, and some which REALLY don't.  This can be a big frustration when planning a project with multiple laces and fabrics.  Thumbs up!!!

 

Another Capri Set

I'm been having a bit of fun making capri sets that incorporate heirloom techniques in the small size manageable format of  a swing top and pants - not yards and yards of full skirts and ruffles.  This one has a bit of hand embroidery, button centered cast-on flowers connected with a chain stitch, an interesting two color entredeux edge trim, and lots of  French bias bound edges.

The interfaced pockets have an embroidered, entredeux trimmed flap and are bound with 1/16"  lime microcheck.  I like to prefinish my bindings to the exact length needed, using a technique that angles the ending seam allowance away from the final finished edge.  It gives a much cleaner, less bulky finish than trying to tuck the binding end seam allowances in at the finished edges.  I prefinished the length of the bias bindings on the neckline, pockets, and lower edge of the swing top.

The edges of the pocket flaps, mock front yoke, and ruffle sleeves are finished with entredeux which has been trimmed and embellished with a cross stitch and running stitch in two contrasting colors.

 

 

The top  fabric is petite point pique and is fully lined with Imperial batiste. The cuffed, reversible capris are fine line navy pique reversing to microcheck.  This will be a new class project for 2013 in sizes 3-6. 

 

I'm trying to step away from the traditional pastel pink/blue/ green color palette that is so lovely to work with but often over used.  I'm making this set up in an alternate color way of aqua pique and orange microcheck. I don't think I've made anything orange in my entire life - well... maybe in the 70's but I can't be held responsible for that.

 

 

Farmhouse Fabrics Project for 2013

This is a photo of the first version (kind of a trial run) of the project I'm planning for Farmhouse Fabrics next year.  The cotton batiste underdress/slip could stand alone with a sash as a beach type dress of it could take on a very formal look worn under a velveteen or corduroy dark colored a-line jumper.  I love the look of  it paired with the smocked  floral cotton lawn jumper.

The smocked jumper slips on over the head but has plenty of tricky construction points with all the piped, curved, French bias bound edges.  The underdress/slip, as mentioned in my earlier post, includes lots of  1/8" tucks, Swiss and French laces, and a cotton netting collar. 

I can't wait to start on the real deal - all ivory laces paired with my personal favorite fabric to sew on - Liberty Tana Lawn.  The print I have chosen to use is from their classic collection and is called  'Bourton'.

My Mountain

The change of season never fails to take my breath away in this beautiful wild place.  I'm lucky enough to be able to walk out my back door and be here in less than eight minutes.

Favorite all time quote -
" Run the mile you are in"

This is a little look at the project I'm working on to teach at Farmhouse Fabrics in 2013.  The lacy underdress/slip has lots of Swiss and French laces, 1/8" tucks, and a tucked netting collar.  All the things that make my heart go pitter patter.  The smocked jumper which can be worn over the underdress should be ready by next week.  Stay tuned.

Something In the Middle

This next set sits somewhere in the middle between a fancy dress and play clothes.  It's dressy enough for many occasions but kid friendly enough for everyday wear.

The swing top and capri pants are made from 100% cotton pique - probably one of my most go to fabrics.  It's lovely to work with, is durable enough to hold up to what most kids dish out, and washes very nicely.

The swing top has 5, 1/4" released tucks across each front overlayed with a block of joined Swiss insertions and beadings. 

The same tucks and Swiss insertion block is repeated across the back of the top.  The angel sleeves are trimmed with coordinating Swiss edging.  The swing top has a partial lining to allow for a nice finish around the arms eye. 

The bottoms of the swing top and capri pants are finished off with the Swiss beading and Swiss edging joined to look as one piece.  This will be another of my class proposals for the Martha Pullen School in 2013.