Tuesday, April 12, 2016

A Little Something Tailored

New project..... something that  might appeal to the more tailored young lady in your life.  A 3/4 length cotton pique jacket and coordinating A-line sailor collar dress.  Who does not like a red jacket?  It will pair beautifully with denim or white jeans for a more casual look. 

The red cotton pique jacket is fully lined (partially with the red pindot pique and partially with a white poly lining for ease slipping on and off) and features many precision construction details. Can you guess what is behind the two angle set piped bows?   Hint.... fully constructed single welt pockets with an angle cut underlap. 

The construction of the jacket back allows for a half belt, embellished with another piped bow, and a wearing ease pleat.  The sleeve lining has a turn back of the red pique which builds in at least a year of growth room for most girls.  

  The simple fully lined A-line dress, constructed from a red pin dot pique, is a nice diversion from full skirts and puffy sleeves. The piped sailor style collar curves into a Peter Pan style in the back.  The  piped set in sleeve offers a good challenge to incorporate enough ease without puckers or gathers across the cap of the sleeve. 

Welt pockets (single or double) can be quite challenging to perfect.  The following is my preferred method for constructing single welt pockets.  These instructions are part of one of my notebook classes titled 'Just Pockets'. 

Single Welt - Sample Swatch

1. Base Fabric:  10” long by 9” wide
    Base Fabric Interfacing:  10” long by 9” wide
    Pocket Lining:  7” long by 7” wide – cut 2
    Welt Fabric:  2 ½” long by 5 ½” wide
    Welt Interfacing:  2 ½” long by 5 ½” wide
    French Fuse:  3” long by 7” wide

2. Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the welt.

3.  Right sides together, sew the short ends together. Trim and clip the corners.

4.  Turn right side out and press.

5. Measure down and draw a line 3” from the top edge of the base fabric.  Machine baste along this line.

6.  On the wrong side, center a 3” by 7” rectangle of French Fuse over the basted line and fuse in place.

7. Right sides together place the welt so the raw edge laps ¼” over the basted line.

8. Stitch on the welt taking up a ¼” seam allowance.  Begin and end EXACTLY at the ends of the welt.  Back stitch very carefully so no stitches extend beyond the welt.

9. On the right side, center one of the pocket lining squares over the welt, matching the top edges.

10. Flip the fabric over to the wrong side and stitch EXACTLY on the first stitching line.  Backstitch carefully at the beginning and end. 

12. On the right side, pin the second pocket lining square so it overlaps the previous stitching by ¼”.  Pin in place.

13. On the wrong side, draw in a line ½” above the original line.  Start and stop the line ½” shorter than the original line below it.  Stitch on the new line backstitching at the beginning and the end. 

14. On the wrong side, draw a line in between the two stitched lines. Draw two lines diagonally into the corners.

15.  Cut along the drawn line through the interfaced base fabric and the French Fuse only.  Do not cut through the pocket lining or the welt.  Cut diagonally into the corners. 

16. Pull the two pocket lining squares through to the wrong side through the slashed opening.  Press the welt carefully.  It is helpful to do the pressing over a ham. 

17. From the wrong side and with the base fabric folded back out of the way carefully stitch diagonally over the folded back pie shaped wedges at each end of the pocket. 

18. Continue stitching down the side of the pocket.  The lower edges of the pocket squares will not match.

19. Stitch across the bottom of the pocket and up the other side cutting in on a diagonal line to stitch over the folded back pie shaped wedge on the opposite side.

20.  On the right side, carefully stitch down the ends of the welt.


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