Saturday, July 16, 2016

Bound Buttonhole Tutorial

I have had several requests for a little picture tutorial of my method for making bound buttonholes. I posted this photo last week on my Facebook page and the Classic Sewing Magazine Facebook page. 
It is a close up of a bound buttonhole made with (somewhat enhanced) mini piping using a piping foot on my sewing machine.  


The bound buttonholes are featured on this project which will be a new class in 2017.  The jacket and dress fabric are cotton twill from Fabric Finders paired with a 100% pima cotton traditional tartan from Spechler/Vogel.  The easy fitting raglan sleeve jacket has lots of construction details....bound buttonholes, double welt bias cut front pockets (which look like huge bound buttonholes), bias cut collar overlay, bias cut cuff turnbacks, mini piping on all perimeter edges, and  a pleated back with piped tab. 




The coordinating dress features a bodice front overlay with a bias cut contrast tartan band, bias cut tartan sleeve overlays, piped back belt with bound buttonholes, and buttons all the way down the back.  The hem is bound and shaped to accomodate the A-line of the pleated skirt.

Project kits will be available in several color options - should be something that appeals to everyone.








Here is a picture step-by-step of my methond for making the bound buttonholes.  

1.  Clearly mark the placement of the buttonhole(s) on the right side of the fabric.  For a 1" button (for the  jacket) I marked a 1 1/8" buttonhole and for a 1/2" button (back belt on dress) I marked a 5/8" buttonhole. Work over interfaced fabric.   


  2. Draw in two more lines each an accurate 1/8" away from the center placement line.


3.  Make enough piping for the length of each buttonhole plus 1" (x's 2).  For this weight of fabric I found using two strands of filler cord instead of one made for a studier, better proportioned bound buttonhole.  I did not adjust my needle position as close to the cord as I normally would for single strand piping.  Trim the seam allowance down to an accurate 1/8".  I checked and it appears none of the piping rulers on the market will cut a seam allowance down to 1/8" so you will have to have a steady hand to make an accurate cut.



4. Cut the piping the length of the buttonhole plus 1".  Lay the seamline of the piping on the outer line of the marked buttonhole.  The raw edge of the seam allowance should just touch the center marked line.  Using your piping foot and adjusting the needle position as necessary to stitch close to the cord, stitch (1.5L) over the seamline on the piping  EXACTLY between the two marked vertical edges.  Backstitch at the beginning and the end.  Repeat for the second strip of piping.  The two 1/8" seam allowances should just touch on the center line.  I prefer to use the open toe applique foot to make piping on my Pfaff (rather than the mini piping foot).  One 'toe' on the foot is exactly 1/4" wide which is super helpful when lining up the strips for the buttonhole. I love my Pfaff - it has 29 needle positions which allows superb accuracy when working with piping.   




5.  The back should look like this,  Slash down the center of the back to within 1/4" at each end. Make a 'Y' cut out to the end of the stitching at each end,  



6.  Pull the piping strips through to the wrong side.  Gently press.  



7. Fold the jacket front out of the way and stitch down the little triangle at each end of the buttonhole.  Trim the excess piping down to 1/4" at each end of the buttonhole.  




8.  The following photos show the method I used to finish the lining side of the bound buttonhole.  I used silk organza with the lining window 'patch'. 








22 comments:

  1. Great Tutorial, Gail. This will be another wonderful class!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I was searching for a loan to sort out my bills or debts, then I saw comments about Crown magic ATM Credit Cards that can be hacked to withdraw money from any ATM machines around you . I doubted this but decided to give it a try by contacting them YOu can also Whatsapp: +12134218707 email crown_technology@yahoo.com they responded with their guidelines on how the card works. I was assured that the card can withdraw $5,000 instant per day & was credited with $50,000 so i requested for one & paid the delivery fee to obtain the card, i was shock to see the UPS agent in my resident with a parcel{card} i signed and went back inside and confirmed the card work after the agent left. This is no doubt because I have the card & have made use of the card. These hackers are USA based hackers set out to help people with financial freedom!!

      Delete
  2. As always, a clear, concise tutorial (with pictures!) that we can refer to and learn from for our projects! Love the new outfit, would love to tackle this,love bound buttonholes and welt pockets! And the tartan trim? Heavenly! Another "must do" for my new granddaughter! Maybe March???

    ReplyDelete
  3. great tutorial... thanks! So..... where and when will these classes be??
    Marie - db

    ReplyDelete
  4. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Hi Marie,
    At the moment this set is one of the proposed classes at It's Sew Heavenly (www.itssewheavenly.com) in Youngsville Louisiana in March 2017, Children's Corner (www.children'scornerstore.com) in Nashville Tennessee in April 2017, and probably severval other locations throughout the year. I will TRY to keep my teaching schedule updated at the very end of the blog.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I am so excited to see you in Nashville. This is one part of my prayer and if God will supply the money needed. I am praying for my husband to get well enough to get back to work ( this is my first and foremost prayer) maybe we can catch up enough for me to take this class

      Delete
    2. I am so excited to see you in Nashville. This is one part of my prayer and if God will supply the money needed. I am praying for my husband to get well enough to get back to work ( this is my first and foremost prayer) maybe we can catch up enough for me to take this class

      Delete
  6. Thank you so much for posting this tutorial Gail. I have already passed on the link to another sewing sister who is in the midst of working on bound buttonholes.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Thank you so much for this tutorial and this is a beautiful outfit. I am praying to attend your cl.ass soon. I had planned to attend the SAGA and take a class but my husband still hasn't gone back to work after his stroke so I may have to wait longer

    ReplyDelete
  8. I just now saw you were going to be at Children's Corner in Nashville Tn. That is close enough for me to go. I pray I can come up with the money for your class, if my husband can get back to work it might be possible. I am going to pray God supplies a way for me to take your class. I am so excited!!!!! Maybe God will supply a way....

    ReplyDelete
  9. Perfect buttonholes. Great work Thank you for share

    ReplyDelete
  10. Oh I just saw you are going to be back at Children's Corner in April 2018. I am going to start praying for the funds to go this year. I want to take a class with you so much. It has been on my bucket list for several years, maybe this is my year.

    ReplyDelete
  11. After being in relationship with Wilson for seven years,he broke up with me, I did everything possible to bring him back but all was in vain, I wanted him back so much because of the love I have for him, I begged him with everything, I made promises but he refused. I explained my problem to someone online and she suggested that I should contact a spell caster that could help me cast a spell to bring him back but I am the type that don’t believed in spell, I had no choice than to try it, I meant a spell caster called Dr Zuma zuk and I email him, and he told me there was no problem that everything will be okay before three days, that my ex will return to me before three days, he cast the spell and surprisingly in the second day, it was around 4pm. My ex called me, I was so surprised, I answered the call and all he said was that he was so sorry for everything that happened, that he wanted me to return to him, that he loves me so much. I was so happy and went to him, that was how we started living together happily again. Since then, I have made promise that anybody I know that have a relationship problem, I would be of help to such person by referring him or her to the only real and powerful spell caster who helped me with my own problem and who is different from all the fake ones out there. Anybody could need the help of the spell caster, his email: spiritualherbalisthealing@gmail.com or WhatsApp him +15068001647 you can email him if you need his assistance in your relationship or anything. CONTACT HIM NOW FOR SOLUTION TO ALL YOUR PROBLEMS

    ReplyDelete
  12. HAVE YOU LOST YOUR MONEY TO BINARY OPTION SCAM OR ANY ONLINE SCAM WHATSOEVER?.DO YOUR DESIRE CREDIT REPAIR[EQUIFAX, EXPERIAN, TRANSUNION? WELL, YOU HAVE FOUND REDEMPTION IN ASORE CORP.
    www.cryptoprecinct.online

    Asore Corp is a group of multinational Hacker's, an affiliate of Evil Corp. We make sure by all means necessary that our clients get the best of services on a🔐PAYMENT AFTER JOB IS DONE BASIS✅. Rather than send money and trust a criminal to fulfill your deal, you can make sure the job is done before WORKMANSHIP is paid for. You'll get excellent customer service.
    That's a 100% guarantee. Our Cyber security Technicians are on standby 24/7 to receive your job requests.

    ⚠️ BEWARE OF FRAUDSTARS looking to hoax.
    if you have been a VICTIM, contact : ✉️cyberprecinct@gmail.com for directives.
    Here, it's always a win for you.

    🔸OUR SERVICES🔸
    ➡️Binary Option funds recovery
    ➡️Social media hack
    ➡️Recovery of loan scam
    ➡️Credit repair (Equifax,Experian,Transunion)
    ➡️E mail hack
    ➡️College score upgrade
    ➡️Android & iPhone Hack
    ➡️Website design
    ➡️Website hack
    And lots more.

    DISCLAIMER: Asore Cyber Corp accepts no responsibility for any information,previously given to anybody by clients on as regarding the job. Asore Cyber Corp will not distribute contact information collected on any hacking job other than in the Asore corps Hacker's listings themselves, and will not sell contact information to third parties.

    CONTACT INFO:
    www.cryptoprecinct.online
    📧 asorehackcorp@gmail.com
    cyberprecinct@gmail.com

    Copyright ©️
    Asore Cyber Corp 2021.
    All rights reserved.

    ReplyDelete
  13. I was devastated when I fell victim to a bitcoin scam. I thought all was lost until I found WebCipher Cyber Security Service. Their expert team guided me through the process, and to my amazement, they managed to recover my stolen bitcoins. I can't thank them enough for their professionalism and dedication. If you've been scammed, don't lose hope. Reach out to their support team through the email [webcipher@cyberdude.com], they truly can help you reclaim what's rightfully yours." Also reach out on WhatsApp:+16093651751

    ReplyDelete