Gotta Love A New Gadget and a Double Piping Tutorial

We sewing ladies are great collectors and everyone loves a new gadget.  These scallop rulers might not be new on the market but they are new to me.  I wanted to try a project that would feature what this little gem will do.  I am sure they were developed for the quilt market but I can think of lots of places I might use them in the embellishment of children's garments.  

The ruler and the 'pusher' are sold separately and come in 1/2", 3/4", 1", 1 1/2", and 2" sizes.  I used the 2" size for this project.

The ruler allows you to quite simply mark and stitch two straight grain strips of fabric together (I used raspberry and aqua 1/32" micro check) and end up with a double scallop border.  I gathered it up for the angel sleeve and applied it flat around the hemline.  It gave a very nice reversible effect on the angel sleeve.

The project would be great for someone just learning to smock because of the small amount of basic trellis stitch smocking on the center panel.  I don't love the way fine pine pique looks pleated on the cross grain (parallel to the selvage) so I took the liberty of turning my center panel and pleating it along the lengthwise grain so the rib in the pique runs horizontal rather than vertical. It's O.K to beak the 'rules' sometimes.

The other interesting design feature on this project is the double piping.  There are several possible ways to make double piping and on this project I used the following method. 

I sew with a Pfaff  and prefer to use a center groove open toe applique foot for making piping.  It has the perfect size little groove right down the center to hold the cord and allows for multiple needle position adjustment.  It is also a very short foot which helps when going around curves.   If you want to end up with double piping that has a 3/8" seam allowance start with a 1" wide bias strip for the outer color.  Wrap the bias around the cord and stitch with a basting stitch one stitch width away from the cord.

For the inner color cut the bias strip 7/8" wide.  Right sides together and raw edges even lay the inner color on top of the outer color stitched piping.  Use the same foot and needle position to stitch through all layers right on top of the stitching line from the previous step.   

Lay a second piece of cord right next to the stitching line and using the same foot and needle position wrap the inner color over the second cord and stitch one stitch width away from the cord.  

You will end up with a 3/8" seam allowance.  When the double piping is applied to the garment move the needle position in one click closer to the cord to ensure the original stitching lines from the construction of the double piping do not show.