Fabric Ruffle, Piped, Peter Pan Collar Tutorial

Fabric Ruffle, Piped, Peter Pan Collar

   

 1.  Using a #2 pencil, trace the collar outline (make sure to flip the pattern over to make a left and a right collar) onto the right side of a block of fabric.  Be careful to line up the grain line of the collar to the grain line of the fabric.  DO NOT cut out the collar.  Mark the center front, center back, and the shoulder line.

2.  Fuse lightweight interfacing to the wrong side of the collar fabric block.  For lightweight fabrics an alternative to interfacing is to use two layers of the outer fabric.

3.  Cut bias strips to the following widths (depending on chosen seam allowance):

·        ¾” wide for ¼” seam allowances

·        1” wide for ⅜” seam allowances

·        1 ¼” wide for ½” seam allowances

·        1 ½” wide for ⅝” seam allowances

Wrap the bias strip around the filler cord and use a zipper foot, five groove pintuck foot, cording foot, or open toe applique foot to stitch close to, but not catching the filler cord.  There should be the width of one needle between the stitching and the cord.  Use a 2.5 stitch length.

4. Cut a length of piping the approximate length of the collar perimeter.  Clip into the piping seam allowance at ½” intervals.  Steam shape the piping to the perimeter of the collar.  Stitch the piping (2.0L) to the collar, stitching just inside the stitching line on the piping.  Be careful to keep the raw edges of the piping aligned to the drawn collar perimeter.  Do not stretch the piping while stitching.

2. Cut out the interfaced, piped collar front on the perimeter pencil line.  Cut out the neckline curve ½” from the pencil line.

3.  Using a steam iron, gently press the piping into its finished position, easing in the seam allowances on the wrong side of the collar.  It will look lumpy...don't panic.  All that excess seam allowance will end up being cut off.

4.  For a ¾” wide finished ruffle cut 2 ¼” bide bias strips twice the length of the finished collar edge.  Fold the bias strips in half (lengthwise and wrong sides together) and press.  Use the ruffle guide provided to shape both ends of the collar ruffle.

5. Run two rows of gathering threads (3.0L), one at ⅛” and the second at ⅜” away from the cut edges of the collar ruffle.  Mark the center point and gather up the collar ruffle to the finished collar measurement.  Pull from each end in toward the center point. 

6.  Mark the center front and the center back SEAMLINE (not cutting line) on the piped collar.  These marks are where the collar ruffle should end. 

7.   Working from the right side, pin the gathered up ruffle to the wrong side of the collar having the ⅜” gathering thread line positioned just beyond the piped edge of the collar. 

8.  Machine baste (5.0L) right along the piping, holding the gathered ruffle in its finished position.  Be sure the ruffle begins and ends at the marked center front and center back SEAMLINES.

9.  Flip the seam allowances back out, which will force the ruffle toward the center of the collar.  The basting line from Step 8 will keep the ruffle in its correct position while you proceed with the finishing steps of the collar. 

10.  Matching fabric grain lines and right sides together, lay the collar front over the collar backing, sandwiching the piping and the ruffle in the middle.  Pin in place. 

11.  Stitch (1.5L) right on top of the stitching line from the application of the piping.  Stitch again (1.5L), a scant 1/16” away from the first stitching line. 

12. Trim through all layers very close to the second stitching line around the perimeter of the collar. 

  13.  Remove the basting thread lines from the piping and the inner edge of the gathered ruffle.  I do not cut out along the neckline cutting line until I am ready to sew the collar into the neckline of the garment.  This prevents the collar from stretching during preparation.